While many are unaware of this, Shiga Prefecture, next to Kyoto, has a wealth of national treasures and cultural properties! Starting from Mt. Hiei to the temples in the Sakamoto area, Ōtsu is the city for a day tour destination with spots that are rich in history and culture. To make your visit more memorable, add Enman-in (圓満院) to your itinerary. Not only does the temple have gorgeous traditional buildings and a nationally recognized garden, but you can also participate in various cultural activities there. Spending a night in the temple is also possible!
Table of Contents
- Enman-in’s Profile
- Shinden Hall (宸殿)
- Mii no Meitei Garden (三井の名庭)
- Mii no Meisui Spring (三井の名水)
- Ōtsu Painting Museum (大津絵美術館)
- Cultural Activities at Enman-in
- Enman-in’s Vegan Shōji Ryōri
- Experiencing Shukubō (宿坊)
Enman-in’s Profile
The temple is a Tendai sect temple erected in 987 by Prince Goen (悟円法親王), the 3rd son of Emperor Murakami (村上天皇). It used to be under Mii-dera Temple (三井寺).
Enman-in was named Byōdō-in (平等院) initially but gave its name to the Byōdō-in in Uji we know nowadays when Byōdō-in was completed.
Enman-in is one of the 17 Monzeki Temples (門跡寺院) in Japan. A Monzeki is a temple where the head monk had been an imperial family member or a noble court. While Enman-in is now north of Mii-dera, it was only relocated in the early Edo period.
Shinden Hall (宸殿)
As the temple has a deep connection with the imperial family, the Shinden Hall was relocated to the temple’s precinct from the Kyoto Imperial Palace in 1647 to be a part of the living quarter of the Queen of the Emperor Go-Mizunoo (後水尾天皇).
The original sliding doors are stored in Kyoto National Museum (京都国立博物館). The ones in Enman-in’s Shinden are replicas. But please check with the staff before expanding the sliding doors, as the doors are usually put to one side of the room.
The original sliding doors are stored in Kyoto National Museum (京都国立博物館). The ones in Enman-in’s Shinden are replicas. But please check with the staff before expanding the sliding doors, as they will be placing them to the side when you get there.
You will also see Emperor Go-Mizunoo’s throne in the Gyokuza no Ma (玉座の間). One of the rooms also features a splendid kimono!
Moreover, check out the ceiling in Shinden in the second photo of the Instagram post. The grid-like pattern can only be found in the residences of those with high social status.
Mii no Meitei Garden (三井の名庭)
South of Shinden, Mii no Meitei is a garden designated as a National Historic Site and a National Place of Scenery Beauty. It was designed by Sōami (相阿弥), a representative garden designer in the Muromachi period.
In addition, Miino Meitei is the only public-accessible garden left in Shiga Prefecture designed by the famous gardener. This is why the garden is also called Sōami Garden.
Many gardens in Kyoto back then were designed by Sōami, including the Ginkaku-ji temple.
Note that Mii no Meitei was renovated when the Shinden was moved to Enman-in, so only parts of Sōami’s original design can be seen now.
In addition to the garden features that are there 365 days a year, in early spring, you can adore the flowers of the cherry tree. In summer, you might be able to hear the voices of Moria tree frogs. And from November to early December, the autumn foliage decorates Mii no Meitei garden vividly!
Mii no Meitei’s Garden Features
Like many Japanese gardens, Mii no Meitei has a Hōra-ishi stone (蓬莱石) representing Mt. Horai, where the immortal lives. Two small islands in the shape of a turtle and a crane are in the pond.
Why a turtle and a crane? Because they symbolize longevity. The garden is also called Tsurukame Hōrai Garden because it has three symbols of longevity.
Crane Island: While it is hard to picture a crane out of the large stones, apparently, the stone bridge on the left of the photo represents the crane’s long neck, which is why it is named Kakushu-seki (鶴首石). The two standing stones on the small island are the crane’s wings.
Turtle Island: The turtle island on the right is easier to picture. The island consists of several roundish stones. Trees are planted to create the turtle’s rounded back shell.
Behind Turtle Island, the large rock covered by moss close to the shore is the Hōrai-ishi stone. The smaller stones in the water represent the boats used to get to Mt. Hōrai at night. They are thus called Yodomari-ishi (夜泊石).
Small black stones are used to create a long straight path. Their black color makes the path look like a water stream, enabling the garden’s water feature to continue into the dry garden close to Ōtsu Painting Museum (大津絵美術館).
Mii no Meisui Spring (三井の名水)
In the dry garden surrounded by Enman-in’s buildings, there is a traditional-style spring water fountain. Apparently, this water was used for Emperor Tenji (天智天皇), Emperor Tenmu (天武天皇), and Empress Jitō’s (持統天皇) first bath.
The water is said to be able to bring good luck that leads to longevity. So don’t forget to fill your water bottle with it! Don’t worry, you won’t be charged for it!
Ōtsu Painting Museum (大津絵美術館)
Ōtsu-e or Ōtsu Painting was a folk art that anonymous artists started in the Edo period. Many of the paintings have satirical or moral meanings. The paintings were sold to tourists who passed through the post towns in Ōtsu on the official road, Tōkaidō (東海道). It was essentially pop art at the time.
The topics of the painting can range from animals to Deities. With the increased number of topics in the paintings and the traffic through the Tōkaidō, the popularity of Ōtsu-e peaked towards the end of the Edo period.
To preserve this part of the history, Enman-in renovated a part of the monk’s living quarters (庫裏) into a museum. If you are interested in pop culture a couple of centuries ago, you are welcome to stop by!
You can also draw your Ōtsu-e. Speak to the staff if you are keen!
Cultural Activities at Enman-in
Apart from the usual Zen meditation and calligraphy, Enman-in offers a few more activities to its visitors. Before participating in any activity sessions, how about changing into the traditional Kimono? This is one of the services available at the temple so the visitors can get the most out of their time at Enman-in.
After you are in the traditional outfit, you can enjoy the tea ceremony, Tōsenkyō (投扇興) and/or Zen meditation. If you are unsure what to choose, how about Tōsenkyō? You won’t find many places in Japan offering this activity!
The traditional game is similar to dart-throwing. But instead of darts, you will throw a fan towards the target set up on the tatami mat.
Depending on how the fan hits the target and how the target lands, the number of points you get differs. While it seems easy, it can be much harder for some people (like me). If you manage to insert your fan between the base and the target, as shown in the last photo in the Instagram post, you get 10 points, albeit it seems impossible (´▽｀*).
If you can understand Japanese or will be accompanied by an interpreter, the best thing about experiencing Zen meditation is the monk explaining what Zen meditation is and how to do it properly. After a better understanding of the meaning behind the meditation, you will get a lot more out of the moment of reflecting on yourself in a quiet space filled with the scent of incense at Enman-in.
How to Participate in the Cultural Activities at Enman-in
Reservations are essential to participate in any of the activities. You can contact the temple by filling out a web form HERE.
Refer to the official website HERE for more information about the costs and session time available to book.
Vegan Shōji Ryōri at Enman-in
Like other temples, Enman-in offers Shōji Ryōri (精進料理), and there are a few choices. Although it isn’t cheap, and the one we ordered wasn’t the nicest Shōji Ryōri we had, it is still the place to visit in the area if you are after a meal made without any animal products.
The below photo is the most simple Shōji Ryōri at Enman-in. It costs 3,850 yen. You must reserve at least three days beforehand and order at least four set meals.
You can also reserve the Ōtsu-e Yakuzen Shōji Gozen (大津絵 薬膳精進御膳), which costs 6,600 yen. Each dish in the set menu corresponds to an Ōtsu-e character, making the dining experience more interesting. A reservation of at least 5 days beforehand is required, and you must order at least four set meals.
If you have four or more people in your group, you can also reserve the Ōtsu-e Yakuzen Shōji Bento box (大津絵 薬膳精進弁当). It costs 2,200 yen per bento box. Again, a reservation of at least 5 days is required beforehand.
Important: Remember to let Enman-in know what you cannot eat when you reserve a Shōji Ryōri course.
If you are interested, contact them by using their Web Form.
Tip: Enman-in can also serve the Shōji Ryōri for breakfast and dinner.
Experiencing Shukubō (宿坊)
Sanmitsuden (三密殿) is where you will spend a night if you have booked Enman-in’s Shukubō experience. The building and the guestrooms are rather modern, making the stay even more comfortable! As the rooms come in different sizes, the temple can accommodate you even if you have more than 10 people in your group! In addition, Enman-in can set up air beds for you if sleeping on the traditional futon beds is uncomfortable.
In the morning, guests can participate in the temple’s morning chanting starting at 7:30. So don’t miss out on this valuable opportunity!
Note that Shōji Ryōri is not included in the Shukubō cost and needs to be reserved if you want the more premium courses.
Tip: The temple’s fire Homa (護摩) ritual is held on the 2nd Sunday and 28th of the month. Book your stay the night before to observe!
Enman-in’s Opening Hours, Admission Fees, and Access Information
- Enman-in is open from 9 am to 5 pm.
- Ōtsu Painting Museum is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm.
- The admission cost to Ōtsu Painting Museum, Shinden, and Mii no Meitei Garden is:
- 500 yen for adults
- 300 yen for senior high school students
- Free otherwise
- Enman-in is a 5-minute walk from Keihan’s Miidera Station (三井寺駅).
- From JR’s Ōtsukyu Station (大津京駅), it is a 15-minute walk.
Discover Other Attractions in Ōtsu City
Ōtsu, the capital of Shiga Prefecture, is a city filled with rich cultural and historical elements. Although it only lasted for five years, we are sure that after you admire the scenery of Japan’s biggest lake – Lake Biwa, it won’t be hard to understand why Emperor Tenji (天智天皇) wanted to stay close to it!
For more information, please refer to our article on Ōtsu City (=ﾟωﾟ)ﾉ.
