Karuizawa‘s natural spots aren’t just about waterfalls and lakes. Driving up the Usui Pass, there is a park close to the summit at 1,200m. The Usui Pass Observation Platform (碓氷峠見晴台) in the park offers a spectacular panoramic view of the ragged mountain ranges close by, including Mt. Asama, Japan’s Southern Alps and the mountains of Nikkō. In addition, it is also where the prefectural border line between Gunma and Nagano is!
After having your fill of the magnificent view, you can also trek through the 4km promenade back to Kyū-Karuizawa (旧軽井沢) to enjoy the mountain streams’ murmuring and the chirping of wild birds.
The trailhead is just close to the entrance of the observation platform (^_-)-☆.
Tip: In the early morning in autumn and winter, the sea of clouds will spread out before your eyes if the weather conditions are met.
Usui Pass Observation Platform was developed for tourism purposes in 1918.
Usui Pass: An Old Battle Field?
As we all know, Japan has 47 prefectures. But before the Meiji Period (1868 – 1912), the country was divided into provinces, and the observation platform provided a clear view of Usui Pass that separated Kōzuke Province (上野国) and Shinano Province (信濃国). So it is said that the Usui Pass Observation Platform was where Takeda Shingen (武田信玄), the Daimyō of Kai Province (甲斐国), set up his signal fire.
Why did Takeda need a signal fire? Because his army collided severely with Uesugi Norimasa’s (上杉憲正), the Muromachi Shōgun’s deputy in the Kantō region.
When you reach the observation square, you will notice that the stones are placed in the middle. That is the borderline of Nagano and Gunma Prefecture (Shinano and Kōzuke Province in the Sengoku period).
In the Edo period, the Usui Pass Observation Platform was between Karuizawa-Juku and Sakamoto-Juku. Both were post towns on Nakasendō, one of the five routes of the Edo period.
Tips:
☛ If you plan to spend a night in Karuizawa, consider adorning the sunrise from the Usui Pass Observation Platform.
☛ Usui Pass Observation Platform’s autumn foliage season usually peaks from mid to late October.
☛ The sunset at Usui Pass Observation Platform is amazing too!
How to Get to the Usui Pass Observation Platform
There are three ways to get to the Usui Pass Observation Platform from Karuizawa, by foot, by the Red Bus (赤バス), or by car.
Because there is no direct bus from Karuizawa Station to the observatory, if you plan to hike or take a bus, consider Kyū-Karuizawa as your starting point.
By Foot
If you like hiking, you can hike your way up the Usui Pass from Old Karuizawa Ginza Street. A one-way hike through the Kyu-Usui Pass Sightseeing Trail takes around 90 minutes to the observation deck. While 90 minutes sounds like a long time, the natural scenery along the trail will make it less boring, especially during the light green season in early spring and the autumn foliage season.
There are signs every 500m on the promenade, so you shouldn’t get lost on the trail. But refer to the Karuizawa Map HERE if you still feel unsure. A dotted brown line beyond Nite Bridge marks the trail.
Note that the first half of the promenade is maintained and easy to walk, but from the middle, the road becomes unpaved with much dirt and fallen leaves. Also, it is best to avoid hiking through Kyu-Usui Pass Sightseeing Trail from December to April, as proper snow gear is required.
By the Red Bus (赤バス)
An easier and faster way to the Usui Pass Observation Platform from Old Karuizawa Ginza Street is by taking the local sightseeing bus, commonly known as the Red Bus (or Aka Bus in Japanese). The Aka Bus operates from 9 am to 2:35 pm from late April to late November each year. You can board the bus from a few spots, including Karuizawa Information Center (軽井沢観光会館) and Mempai Hotel (万平ホテル).
- The one-way bus trip takes around 20 minutes.
- A one-way bus fare is 500 yen.
- Refer to HERE and click “時刻表” at the top right corner for Aka Bus’ timetable.
Tip: The Aka Bus stop closest to Karuizawa Station is in front of Tokyu Harvest Club (東急ハーヴェストクラブ). But note Aka Bus doesn’t stop there in the afternoon.
By Car
It takes around 10 minutes to drive from Old Karuizawa Ginza Street to the Usui Pass Observation Platform. While it is the fastest way to get there, we don’t recommend driving if you visit Karuizawa during the peak seasons due to parking issues. The platform’s parking lot only has a capacity of a maximum of 5 people, which can be filled up quickly.
Another reason driving isn’t recommended during Karuizawa’s peak sightseeing seasons is that Old Karuizawa Ginza Street is likely to become a pedestrian-only road. In that case, you will need to drive through narrow roads on the north (on the way to) and the south (on the way back), which may not be the most pleasant experience.
Tips:
☛ If the observation deck’s parking lot is full, you can use the car park of the restaurant and shops around the observatory. Many will allow you to park for free if you are a customer.
☛ If you plan to drive, arrive early. The car park is usually full after 10 am, especially on weekends and public holidays.
Usui Sansō (碓氷山荘)
If you are a little bit hungry when you get to Usui Pass, how about taking a break at Usui Sansō for a plate of Chikara Mochi (力餅) or even a bowl of noodle soup? Compared to other diners around the Usui Pass Observation Platform, Usui Sansō has the longest business hours. The Chikara Mochi there is soft and tasty!
So what is Chikara Mochi? It is a mochi rice cake dish that is served with different toppings. Because there are 5 flavors you can choose from (red bean, black sesame, Kinako (soy bean powder), grated reddish, and walnut), we recommend getting the Mixed Plate (五種ミックス). You can order it on its own or as a part of the set menu, which comes with the Mixed Plate, a bowl of noodle soup, and pickles.
Important: The broth used at Usui Sansō isn’t vegetarian.
Why Was the Rice Cake Named Chiraka Mochi
If you know a bit of Japanese, you might wonder why the rice cake is named Chikara, meaning strength in English. Apparently, it is because Usui Sadamitsu (碓氷貞光), a famous and well-respected warrior in the mid-Heian period, was born deep in the mountains near Usui Pass. Because he was a very strong man, the rice cake from his hometown was named “Strength”.
In addition, it is said that Chikara Mochi originated from the rice cakes offered to the gods enshrined in Kumanokōtai Shrine. Because the Usui Pass is one of the most difficult parts of the Nakasendō, travelers would pray at Kumanokōtai Shrine for a safe journey.
Usui Sansō’s Business Hours and Access Information
- Usui Sansō is open from 9 am to 5 pm daily.
- In summer, it opens early, at 8 am.
- In winter, the restaurant opens from 9 am to 3:30 pm.
- The restaurant is a 1-minute walk from the Usui Pass bus stop.
Tip: It is free to park at Usui Sansō if you dine at the restaurant. You can also pay the parking fee first and get it refunded when you dine at the restaurant later.
Shige no Ya (しげの屋)
Just next to the Usui Pass Observation Platform opposite Kumanokōtai Shrine, Shige no Ya is a cafe sitting on Nagano and Gunma‘s prefectural border. It is another spot in the area selling Chikara Mochi and noodle dishes. In fact, Shige no Ya has a history of more than 350 years!
In the Edo period, Shige no Ya was where travelers on the Nakasendō would rejuvenate before embarking on their journey further. Nowadays, the terrace seats at the cliff will provide you with magnificent scenery! There is also an observation platform above the staircases from the terrace.
As soon as you are in front of Shige no Ya, you will notice that bright red line on the ground. That is the prefectural border. The same line is marked inside the cafe. The cafe even has two addresses! So jumping back and forth between Nagano and Gunma Prefecture can be fun at Shige no Ya (´▽｀*).
In summer, aside from Chikara Mochi, various flavors’ of shaved ice are also served!
Note that at Shige no Ya, you have to pay when you order at the register. The staff will bring the dishes to you when ready. Everything else is self-served, including the clean-up after your meal.
Important: The broth and sauce used at Shige no Ya aren’t vegetarian.
Shige no Ya’s Must-Visit Toilet
Whether you need a toilet break or not, you will want to visit Shige no Ya’s toilet. And it is probably the only spot in the world that you will want to check out the opposite gender’s toilet (´▽｀*).
In the male toilet, you will be pleasantly surprised by the scenic view from the window. And no, other than wild birds and animals, no one else can peek through the window.
While there is no nice scenery in the female toilet, the goldfish in the fish tank above the female toilet seat will keep you accompanied if they are still there when you visit!
Lastly, if you cannot find the faucet/tap to wash your hands, a kettle is next to the hand soap in front of a ceiling-to-floor window (^_-)-☆.
Shige no Ya’s Business Hours and Access Information
- Shige no Ya is open from 10 am to 5 pm.
- Refer to Shige no Ya’s Instagram Account for the cafe’s opening days (marked “営業”).
Kumanokōtai Shrine (熊野皇大神社)
Kumanokōtai Shrine, close to the Usui Pass Observation Platform, is a rare shrine you will want to visit. Not only does it sits on a prefectural borderline, but the central watershed (中央分水嶺) can also be found in the precinct! Because the shrine’s precinct is across two prefectures, the shrine consists of two religious institutions (宗教法人). The first half in Nagano Prefecture is Kumanokōtai Shrine, and the other half in Gunma Prefecture is Kumano Shrine. Each religious institution has its responsible person, shrine staff, donation box, and shrine office. This is why Kumanokōtai Shrine is designated as one of the 4 Special Shrine in Japan (特別神社).
For more information about what else is interesting about the shrine, refer to our Kumanokōtai Shrine article!
Discover Other Fascinating Attractions Karuizawa
The attractions on Usui Pass are not the only must-visit spot in Japan’s best highland resort, Karuizawa. It also has a couple of more amazing natural spots. In addition, the traditional township has several Western-style villas, amazingly designed churches, and unique cafes and restaurants awaiting your visit.
So refer to our Guide to Karuizawa article for more attractions to include in your itinerary!
