Buried deep in the mountain, whether it is in Sendai City or within the Miyagi Prefecture, Jogi Nyorai Saihoji Temple (定義如来 西方寺) is one of the top tourist attractions. It is no wonder Hanyu Yuzuru and his family were willing to visit the temple regularly. The temple, located in the west of Sendai City, can be reached by direct bus. If you plan to drive there, stop briefly at the stunning Ōkura Dam (大倉ダム) for a relaxing stroll (check out the stunning photo below that we took from the bus)!
The main image of Saihoji erected in 1198, is Amida Buddha. But instead of a Buddha statue, it is a hanging scroll. Although a hanging scroll might sound rather ordinary, it was brought to Japan by Taira no Shigemori (平重盛), who donated gold to Mt. Wutai (五台山) in China.
Taira no Shigemori was the eldest son of Taira no Kiyomori (平清盛), who established the first samurai-dominated administrative government in the late 12th century.
All You Need to Know About Visiting Jogi Nyorai Saihoji Temple
- When Can You See the Amida Buddha Scroll
- Saihōji's History
- Saihōji's Magnificent Sanmon Gate
- Sadayoshi-dō (御廟貞能堂), Mausoleum for Taira Sadayoshi
- The Statue of Victory – Jizō Bodhisattva (将軍地蔵)
- Chōmeisui Fountain (長命水)
- The Sacred Tree for Marriage Tie (縁結びの御神木) and Emperor Mound (天皇塚)
- Saihōji's Main Worship Hall: Daihondō (大本堂)
- Saihōji's Five-Story Pagoda (五重塔)
- Teahouse Yasuragi (席 やすらぎ)
- Temple Museum, Tamatebako (展示室玉手箱)
- The Best Time to Visit Saihōji
- Saihōji Temple's Opening Hours and Access Information
- Must-Try Gyōgi Street Food No. 1: Deep-Fried Tofu
- Must-Try Gyōgi Street Food No. 2: Yakimeshi (焼きめし)
- Discover Other Fantastic Attractions in Sendai
When Can You See the Amida Buddha Scroll
The Amida Buddha scroll is a hidden Buddha in Saihoji. So if you are interested in meeting this treasure, visit the temple on one of the dates below.
- On January 7, Saihoji’s anniversary
- On April 6 and 7, the spring festival
- On July 6 and 7, the summer festival and Sadayoshi’s anniversary
- On October 6 and 7, the autumn festival
Saihōji’s History
In 1185, the Taira clan lost the Battle of Dan-no-Ura (壇ノ浦の戦い). At the time, Taira no Sadayoshi (平貞能), the chief retainer of the Taira clan, carried the hanging scroll and traveled around the country to escape from Genji’s (源氏) chase. In the end, Sadayoshi arrived at where Saihoji is today.
To hide his true identity, Sadayoshi changed his name to Jōgi (定義) and later passed away when he was 60.
Adhering to Sadayoshi’s will, a small temple was built above his grave by his vassal. The Amida Buddha’s hanging scroll was then enshrined in the temple, which later became the Jōgi Saihoji.
Saihōji’s Magnificent Sanmon Gate
Assuming you are taking a bus from Sendai Station, the splendid Sanmon Gate is just around a 5-minute walk from the bus stop, Jōgi.
However, as shops and restaurants are formed into a long approach, you might take a lot longer to arrive at the temple! (´▽｀*).
Sadayoshi-dō (御廟貞能堂), Mausoleum for Taira Sadayoshi
Directly opposite the Sanmon Gate is Sadayoshi-dō, the temple built above Taira Sadayoshi’s grave. Before the Daihondō was completed in 1999, Sadayoshi-dō was Saihoji’s main worship hall.
Saihoji’s Buddha was also known as someone who could fulfil your once-in-a-lifetime wish. Some pilgrims would even indulge themselves with the smoke from the incense burner in the photo, as it was believed that you could receive Buddha’s blessing by doing so.
In fact, there are stories of pilgrims’ diseases being recovered instantly as the smoke reached their affected body parts!
To the left of Sadayoshi-dō, you can purchase Omamori (amulet) and ask for Sadayoshi-dō’s Goshuin from the temple’s office.
You can also get the Goen-musubi (ご縁結び) ema plaque here if you have relationship-related prayers. These plaques are quite cute. Instead of the usual pentagon-shaped plaque, it is round, decorated with floral images.
The Goen-musubi ema rack is located at the back of Sadayoshi-dō.
Sutra-Copying at Sadayoshi-dō
A cultural activity you can do at Sadayoshi-do is sutra-copying. The sutras were left on the low table at the back of the temple. There were five different sutras on the table for us to pick and copy. Using the ink brushes on the table, all you need to do is write over the sutra printed on the paper!
After copying the sutra, offer it to the Buddha by leaving it in the designated box at the front of the temple. Lastly, put 500 yen into the donation box. You can refer to the last photo in the Instagram post for how the boxes look.
The Statue of Victory – Jizō Bodhisattva (将軍地蔵)
As you follow the approach and proceed further to the main hall, you will find a small temple at the back of Sadayoshi-dō. It is where a Jizō Bodhisattva is enshrined.
Originally, the Bodhisattva was known for his power to alleviate head-related illnesses. But nowadays, many pilgrims would pray to him for victory. Because this Jizō Bodhisattva is called “Shōgun (将軍)”, which can also be written as the “勝軍”, meaning the winning army.
Chōmeisui Fountain (長命水)
As you follow the approach and proceed further to the main hall, you will walk past a water fountain called Chōmeisui (長命水). Drinking the water from the fountain is said to prolong your life. Whether the legend is true or not, the water is delicious (^_-)-☆.
This is why the drinks served in the temple’s teahouse use the water from the Chomeisui Fountain!
The Sacred Tree for Marriage Tie (縁結びの御神木) and Emperor Mound (天皇塚)
Following the stairs behind the Chomeisui Fountain, there is a giant Zelkova protected by a hut atop the staircases. While the tree appears to be just one Zelkova, there are actually two!
As the two Zelkovas grow, their trunks entwine and later become the one tree people refer to as Renri no Keyaki (連理の欅), the Zelkova of marriage. Thus, the tree is one of the most popular spots at Saihoji, where people pray for a happy and healthy marriage.
Under the Zelkova trees, there is an emperor mound. What is buried in the mound is the memento of Emperor Antoku (安徳天皇).
In addition to the Amida Buddha’s hanging scroll, what Sadayoshi had been protecting was Emperor Antoku’s memento. When he settled down in Sendai, he buried the memento and prayed for the emperor’s afterlife.
So how did Emperor Antoku’s possession fall into Sadayoshi’s hands?
It is because Taira no Kiyomori’s daughter Tokuko married into the imperial family. Emperor Antoku was Tokuko’s son, enthroned when he was just one year and four months old. However, the Taira clan lost the Battle of Dan-no-Ura, and Emperor Antoku lost his life in the civil war when he was only six years and four months old.
The sacred Zelkova trees were planted after the Emperor Mound was built.
Saihōji’s Main Worship Hall: Daihondō (大本堂)
The Daihondō Hall is where the Jōgi Amida Buddha is enshrined. Construction of the building was completed in 1999. With the number of cypress trees from the Aomori Prefecture used for this construction, Saihoji’s Daihondō is the biggest Aomori cypress wooden structure completed in the 20th century.
The temple is connected with the building on the right. There is a small museum/gallery with a couple of Buddha images on display for you to examine and pray (see the last two photos in the Instagram post).
Chanting service takes place daily at Daihondō. When the service is on, the worship hall is closed. But as the daily ones only last for thirty minutes or so, come back and explore the interior of Daihondō after checking out other spots in the precinct!
If you would like the temple to assist you with your prayers, apply at the Daihondō’s temple office and let them know your name, address, and prayers. After the ritual, you will receive a talisman and an amulet containing a piece of paper with your name and prayers written.
Saihoji is also a famous place to pray for the conception of a child and a safe delivery. So at Daihondō, there are Child Conception Figures (子授け人形) and Safe Delivery Pillow (安産枕) that you can borrow.
Yes, borrow.
After your wish comes true, you must return the figure and/or make a new pillow and gift it to the temple for the next female pilgrim.
Saihōji’s Five-Story Pagoda (五重塔)
To get to Saihoji’s symbol, the Five-Story Pagoda, there are two paths you can choose from. A smaller approach leads to the back of the pagoda or the main road.
The pagoda was built to pray for Sadayoshi’s afterlife and eternal peace for humanity. You will definitely be surprised by its magnificence!
Tip: Plan your visit from March to November on the 7th of each month to see the Amida Buddha in the pagoda.
Teahouse Yasuragi (席 やすらぎ)
In the pagoda’s garden, you can take a rest at Teahouse Yasuragi and enjoy a cup of matcha green tea and some Japanese sweets.
The cafe is also where you can get the pagoda’s Goshuin.
- Teahouse Yasuragi is open from 10 am to 3:30 pm.
- The business hours may be subject to change from December to March.
Temple Museum, Tamatebako (展示室玉手箱)
Next to the teahouse, there is a small museum exhibiting the temple’s history. It is also a place to learn the local customs.
Although English notation is limited, browsing through the photos and models while listening to nursery rhymes can be quite interesting.
The Best Time to Visit Saihōji
While Saihoji is scenic year-round, autumn is probably the best season to visit, with peak season from late October to early November.
Saihōji Temple’s Opening Hours and Access Information
- Saihoji is open from 8 am to 4:15 pm, with the Daihōndo opening early at 7:45 am.
- From Sendai Station, take the Sendai City Bus bound for Jōgi from bus stop no. 14 at Sendai Station’s west exit and get off at the terminal stop, Jōgi (定義).
- HERE is the timetable for services departing from Sendai Station.
- Please only refer to the services bound for Jōgi (定義).
- HERE is the timetable for services departing from Jōgi.
- You can also just use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.
- HERE is the timetable for services departing from Sendai Station.
Tip: There is a public toilet next to the bus stop, Jōgi.
After you get off the bus, the road to the left leads to the shops and the Sanmon Gate. If you choose to go straight, you will arrive at the Hōndo Hall and the Five-Story Pagoda first.
Note that the bus trip takes around an hour and only one service is available every one or two hours. So keep an eye on the time when you explore Saihoji.
With that being said, as most people spend around 40 to 60 minutes in the temple, you will most likely be able to catch the next bus going back to Sendai’s city center at the end of your visit.
Tip: There is a well-maintained waiting room with a clean toilet at the bus stop.
Must-Try Gyōgi Street Food No. 1: Deep-Fried Tofu
There are a few tofu shops lined Saihoji Temple’s approach. The one that you must visit is Jogi Tofu, the shop that is closest to the temple’s gate. Why? Not only is the deep-fried tofu there just delicious, but it is also the shop that Hanyu Yuzuru (two-time Olympic champion in men’s figure skating) visited often. Among all the autographs displayed in the shop, two are by Yuzuru!
Jōgi Tofu was established in 1890 to make the tofu in the Shōjin Ryōri (精進料理) offered to the Buddha in Saihōji, Jōgi Nyorai (定義如来). The shop is now so popular that there might be a queue, even on a weekday!
While the shop serves various types of tofu to its customers, including soy milk, what has also been attracting customers from around the country to visit the shop is, however, the triangular deep-fried bean curd. Despite its size (20cm x 3cm thickness), you can still finish one bean curd in no time. We loved it so much that we went back for more after visiting Saihoji (´▽｀*).
Once you get your tofu, remember to add the two seasonings placed on the table (soy sauce and garlic-flavored seven-spiced blend)! If you love the seasoning, they are also on sale for purchase (^_-)-☆.
And if you ask for the secret to the bean curd’s deliciousness, they are made with 100% soybeans. Each bean curd is then fried twice, once at a lower temperature and once at a higher temperature. It is said that this is the only way to keep the deep-fried bean curd crispy while maintaining a soft, thick interior.
Jōgi Tofu’s Business Hours and Access Information
- Jōgi Tofu is open from 9 am to 4 pm.
- It is around a 5-minute walk from the bus stop, Jōgi.
Must-Try Gyōgi Street Food No. 2: Yakimeshi (焼きめし)
Another street food that you have to try at Gyōgi is the grilled Yakimeshi (riceball)! There are a few places on Saihoji’s approach that are selling it. If you can’t find any, try either Hayatomi (はやとみ) or Seisui-kan (清水館).
The riceball is quite big! Compared to the riceballs sold at Japanese convenience stores, the Yakimeshi at Gyōgi is around 1.5 times bigger!
Depending on where you get the riceball from, it might be miso or soy sauce-flavored. However, no matter what flavour it is, the nice, slightly burnt smell is just appetizing and goes really well with the triangular deep-fried bean curd from Gyōgi Tofu Shop!
Tip: If you are after the Yakimeshi, head to the restaurants early to avoid disappointment. This is especially true on weekends and public holidays.
Discover Other Fantastic Attractions in Sendai
You might not be aware of it, but Sendai, the Tōhoku region‘s biggest city, receives more than 20 million tourists each year!
So if you want to find out how Sendai managed to attract so many visitors, refer to our article on Sendai, which is filled with historical, cultural, and natural attractions (=ﾟωﾟ)ﾉ.
