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Vegetarian's Japan Guide

Kitano Tenmangū: One of the Most Scenic Shrines in Kyoto

If you are a student or in the process of learning a skill, Kitano Tenmangū (北野天満宮) is the shrine you need to visit. The shrine enshrining the God of Learning is the best spot to pray for academic success. Among all the Tenmangū shrines in Japan, Kitano Tenmangū in Kyoto is especially well-known. Not only are the buildings here splendid, the vast precinct is scenic throughout the year!

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About Kitano Tenmangū

Like other Tenmangū shrines in Japan, Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真) is the main god at Kitano Tenmangū. In fact, it is the head shrine of around 12,000 Tenmangū shrines in Japan!

Kitano Tenmangū was erected for Sugawara no Michizane in 947 after the famous scholar of the Heian period (794 – 1185) passed away in Dazaifu,Kyushu. You can refer to our Dazaifu Tenman-gū‘s article for Michizane’s sad life story and the reason that a shrine was built for him.

More historical events were added to the shrine as it was chosen to be where Toyotomi Hideyoshi held a large-scale tea ceremony in 1587. More than 1,000 tea sessions were held in the area.

While we can’t see Hideyoshi’s Golden Tea Room (黄金茶室), the well (Taikō ido, 太閤井戸) where he fetched water can be found near the shrine’s second torii gate. The Tea Room Shōkōken (茶室松向軒) from the time still exists. In honor of the historical event, the Tea Offering event (Kenchasai, 献茶祭) is held on the 1st of December each year.

Traditional art performances, such as Kabuki dances, also took place at the beginning of the 17th century, making Kitano Tenmangū a spot renowned for cultural activities.

© photo-ac.com
© photo-ac.com

The current main worship hall, Gohonden (御本殿), was renovated by Hideyoshi’s son, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀頼) in 1607. From how splendid the building is, it won’t be hard to tell how powerful and wealthy the Toyotomi clan was back then. If you look closely, there are three pumpkin carvings on the beam. They were carved in the hope that Hideyoshi could continue to win the wars in which he was involved.

The building is Japan’s national treasure.

The Sankōmon Gate (三光門)

Kitano Tenmangū’s Chūmon Gate (中門) in front of the main worship hall is called Sankōmon. The Sankō means the lighting from the sun, moon, and stars.

The sun and moon were carved on the beams. However, the stars are nowhere to be found. Why? Because the Japanese Emperor could see the polar star from his dwelling at the time. Thus, carving stars wasn’t necessary as they were in the sky above the gate!

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The Daikoku-sama (大黒さま)

There are a couple of stone lanterns standing southeast of Sankōmon Gate. One of them has a deity, Daikoku-sama, carved. His mouth is slightly concaved.

It is said that if you successfully put a pebble in his mouth without it falling down and keep that pebble in your wallet, you will never have to worry about money! Apparently, it isn’t easy to find a pebble that will stay in his mouth, but you can challenge him as many times as you want.

Just remember to put some coins into the donation box next to it.

The Nade-ushi Statues (なで牛)

You might notice many cow or bull statues when you stroll around Kitano Tenmangū. Each of them has a different facial expression and size. We are sure you will find one that you like!

The bulls are the god’s messengers at Tenmangū, and it is said that stroking these statues brings health benefits, depending on which part of the body you touch.

If you pet its head, you will be blessed with wisdom. Thus, the statues are called Nade-ushi (nade means stroke, and ushi means cow/bull).

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If you are curious about the relationship between the cows and Michizane, there are several theories. For example, a cow was crying when Mchizane departed for Dazaifu. A more realistic one is that it was because Michizane’s zodiac sign was a bull.

Tip: All the cow statues at Kitano Tenmangū lie on the ground except the small one under the eaves of the main worship hall!

Kitano Tenmangū’s Museum: Houmotsuden (宝物殿)

If you are interested in historical and cultural items, visit the shrine’s Houmotsuden. Kitano Tenmangū has been deeply revered by the Japanese, including the imperial family, court nobles, samurai families, and merchants. Many rare and expensive items have been offered to Michizane and have been passed down to today.

The museum has a large collection of artifacts of high artistic value, such as ancient documents, calligraphy, paintings, swords, and tea utensils. Many were designated as Japan’s national treasure or important cultural properties.

  • Exhibitions of different themes are held at the Houmotsuden throughout the year.
  • The museum is open from 9 am to 4 pm.
  • The admission fee is
    • 1,000 yen for adults
    • 500 yen for high school students
    • 250 yen for elementary school students

The Plum Blossoms at Kitano Tenmangū

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When you visit Kyoto for the plum blossoms, Kitano Tenmangū is the must-visit spot. With 1,500 plums growing, you will be overwhelmed by the flowers in the precinct! As there are 50 varieties of plums, the plum blossom season at the shrine is long.

Unlike most plum groves, the photos of the plum blossoms you can get at Kitano Tenmangū have the Kyoto vibe, thanks to the shrine buildings from centuries ago in the background! The buildings can also help block out unwanted sunlight, giving you a couple of angles for photo shooting without backlighting throughout the day.

Kitano Tenmangū’s plum grove, Hana no Tei (花の庭), is usually open to the public from early February to late March. The plum blossom season usually peaks between late February and early March. The observation deck offers a panoramic view of the plum grove. The teahouse is where you can take a relaxing break while enjoying tea and sweets.

  • The Plum Blossom Festival (梅花祭) is held on the 25th of February each year.
  • In 2024, the plum grove was open from February 1st to March 17th.
    • The plum grove was open from 9 am to 4 pm.
      • The last admission was at 3:40 pm.
    • Nighttime illumination took place from February 23rd to March.
      • The opening hours extended to 8 pm.
  • The admission fee, including a cup of plum-infused tea and a traditional confectionery is
    • 1,200 for adults
    • 660 yen for elementary school students

On the day of the Plum Blossom Festival, a tea event called the Plum Blossom Festival Open-Air Tea Ceremony (梅花祭野点大茶湯) is also held. A maiko or geisha will serve a cup of matcha tea! Numbered tickets are distributed at Kitano Tenmangū Bundou Kaikan Hall (文道会館) from 10 am until they run out on January 25th. The cost was 3,000 yen in 2024.

Tips for Taking Photos of the Plum Blossoms at Kitano Tenmangū

  • In the morning, when sunlight comes from the east, take a photo from the east side of the main hall. You will get a clear photo of the plum blossom near the northeast corner, with the worship hall and the blue sky on the west.
  • In the afternoon, when the sunlight comes from the west, take your photos towards the east. There are also plum blossoms on the building’s east side.
  • Face your camera towards the north throughout the day because the sun’s location leans south when traveling from east to west.

The Fall Foliage at Kitano Tenmangū

It is said that Michizane loved autumn leaves as well as plum blossoms. The waka poem he composed about the vivid foliage is a representative poem of Michizane (小倉百人一首の24番). So, many maple trees can be found in this shrine. The most scenic spot in the shrine is Momiji-en (もみじ苑). It was constructed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1591.

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  • The Momiji-en area is usually open to the public from early November to early December.
  • The fall foliage season usually peaks from mid-November to early December

The Tenjin Market (天神市)

Because Michizane was born and died on the 25th of the month, the day is treated as a special day at Kitano Tenmangū. Many pilgrims choose to visit the shrine on this day. The day becomes the perfect day for a flea market. There can be as many as 300 stalls selling antiques, secondhand clothes, handmade items, and more!

  • The Tenjin Market opens from 6 am to 4 pm on the 25th of each month.
  • The flea market’s location is close to the bus stop, Kitano Tenmangū-mae (北野天満宮前).

Don’t rush off after you have your fun at the flea market. The 350 stone lanterns and 250 lanterns hanging at the worship halls are lit from sunset, creating a fantastic view you can’t miss out on!

Kitano Tenmangū’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information

  • Kitano Tenmangū is open from 7 am to 5 pm.
    • The shrine office is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm.
    • The opening hours are extended to 8 pm during the autumn light-up period.
  • The shrine is a 5-minute walk from Keifuku Electric Railroad’s (京福電車) Kitano Hakubai-Cho Station (北野白梅町駅).
  • You can also take a bus and get off at Kitano Tenmangū-mae (北野天満宮前).
  • Use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.