You might have come across the beckoning cat, maneki-neko (招き猫). The cat figurine is often believed to bring good luck to the owner. Leaving the figurine’s ability to bring good fortune aside, the maneki-neko is a cute decor and might cheer you up when feeling down. If you are smitten by maneki-neko, the must-visit spot in Tokyo for the lucky cat figurine is Gōtokuji. The temple is said to be the birthplace of the beckoning cat. Thousands of maneki-neko in different sizes are found in temple’s offering place. The number of them is simply overwhelming.
Table of Contents
- About Gōtokuji
- Why Is Gōtokuji the Birthplace of the Lucky Cat, Maneki-neko?
- The Maneki-neko at Gōtokuji Look Different from Other Places in Japan?
- Shofukuden (招福殿): Where to Find the Lucky Cat Figurines at Gōtokuji
- Gōtokuji’s Three-Story Pagoda
- Gōtokuji’s Butsu-den (仏殿)
- Gōtokuji’s Hondō Hall (本堂)
- Gōtokuji’s Bell: Bonshō (梵鐘)
- Tōkyū Dentetsu’s Manekineko Tram
- Gōtokuji’s Opening Hours and Access Information
Tip: Gōtokuji’s fall foliage season is usually from mid-November to early December.
About Gōtokuji
Gōtokuji’s formal name is Daikeizan Gōtokuji (大谿山 豪徳寺). It is the Ii clan’s family temple in Tokyo. Because the precinct has many cultural properties related to the powerful samurai family, it was designated as one of Japan’s National Historic Sites.
Originally, Gōtokuji was called Kōtoku-in (弘徳院), which was founded in 1480 by Kira Masatada (吉良 政忠), the lord of Setagaya Castle (世田谷城), after his aunt passed away. In 1633, the Setagaya City became Ii clan’s territory in Tokyo. Kōtoku-in subsequently became Ii clan’s family temple. Largely because the event that made Gōtokuji become the birthplace of the beckoning cat, Ii Naotaka (井伊直孝), the second head of the Ii clan, contributed largely to the temple’s revival. After he passed away, his daughter and wife further expanded Kōtoku-in and renamed it to Gōtokuji, using Naotaka’s Buddhist name (久昌院殿豪徳天英居士).
The Ii clan was the head of the Hikone Domain in today’s Hikone City in Shiga Prefecture.
The graveyard in the west part of the temple is a National Historic Site, designated in 2008. Naotaka and the heads of the Ii clan and their families were buried there. In addition, those who were killed in the Sakuradamon Incident (桜田門外の変) were also buried here. It is the area’s biggest well-preserved grave of feudal lords from the Edo period.
Why Is Gōtokuji the Birthplace of the Lucky Cat, Maneki-neko?
So, what does a Buddhist temple have anything to do with maneki-neko?
One day, when Naotaka walked past Gōtokuji, he saw the chief priest’s pet cat, Tama (たま), waving at him. Soon after he walked towards the white cat in the temple, the sky suddenly became dark, and a thunderstorm started. Naotaka felt thankful that he hadn’t gotten wet, and because he had a great conversation with the chief priest, he later largely contributed to the temple’s revival. After Tama died, the head priest built a hall for it and made a statue of Tama with its right hand raised.
Because of the episode, people also started making figurines of Tama (the white cat) as they believe Tama warded off Naotaka’s bad luck (thunderstorm) and brought good fortune to the temple, thanks to Naotaka’s donation and effort.
Nowadays, many pilgrims visit Gōtokuji’s Shofukuden Hall (招福殿) to pray for a variety of things, such as the safety of their families and prosperity in businesses.
The Maneki-neko at Gōtokuji Look Different from Other Places in Japan?
Usually, the beckoning cats would hold a small ancient coin, but that isn’t the case at Gōtokuji. Why? Because the temple believes that it is the opportunity that the lucky cats bring you. It is up to you whether you can make use of it and gain good fortune.
This way of thinking makes a lot of sense. If Naotaka hadn’t entered Gōtokuji after seeing the cat waving at him, he would have missed the opportunity of getting a shelter and got rained on.
Shofukuden (招福殿): Where to Find the Lucky Cat Figurines at Gōtokuji
Gōtokuji has a vast precinct, and most parts of the temple have a solemn vibe. Passing through the temple’s Sanmon gate (山門), it would feel like you are walking in a temple nestled in a mountain. If you visit the temple for the sole purpose of beckoning cats, you might start feeling anxious whether you have arrived at the wrong temple because the cats are nowhere to be seen.
Assuming you have followed the transport information at the end of the article correctly, rest assured that you are at the right place. The maneki-neko offered by pilgrims are placed only at the offering place (招福猫児奉納所) next to and behind Shofukuden Hall.
The temple was completed in 1941 and renovated in 2022. Standing in front of Shofukuden, you will be greeted by the lucky cats lining the window.
Following the visitor route, you will surely find the altar covered by white cat figurines. They were either offered to the Buddha with their wishes written or returned to the temple after the pilgrims’ wishes came true. It would feel like you have already gained some good luck by looking at the rare scene!
After seeing the offering place being covered by numerous maneki-neko, if you also want to offer one to the Buddha and make a prayer, head to the temple office next to the Hondō Hall. There are eight sized you can choose from. The biggest one is as tall as 30cm!
Of course, you can also bring the maneki-neko home and treat it as an amulet.
Because the beckoning cats are really popular, only one maneki-neko is allowed per person. You can purchase a ticket from the vending machine outside the temple office and exchange it with a maneki-neko at the lucky cat-designated window temple office. Or, you can queue up with those after amulets and/or Goshuin.
Gōtokuji’s Three-Story Pagoda
The Three-Story Pagoda near the Sanmon Gate is 22.5 meters high and houses the statues of Gautama Buddha, Venerable Kashyapa, Venerable Ananda, and Manegi-neko Kannon (招福猫児観音).
If you have the chance, look at the Zodiac signs carved on the pagoda’s first floor. A cat is carved next to the mouse! In fact, the carving depicts a scene where the mouse gives an ancient coin to the cat!
Tip: There are six cats hidden in the decoration of the Three-Story Pagoda. Remember to seek them out!
Gōtokuji’s Butsu-den (仏殿)
Butsu-den is one of Gōtokuji’s most important buildings. It is where the Gautama Buddha, Amida Buddha, and Maitreya Bodhisattva are also enshrined. The wording on the large plaque hung under the roof is Sanzeibutsu (弎世佛), which means Buddhas in the past, present, and future.
To pray for the fourth head of the Ii clan, Ii Naosumi (井伊直澄), Naosuke’s wife and daughter started the construction of the Butsu-den in 1676. The construction was completed in 1677.
Because Butsu-den was rebuilt in 1967, it is relatively a newer building in the precinct. But, the architecture still gives visitors a profound vibe. If you have the chance to enter Butsu-den, remember to check out the ceiling. It is painted with colorful illustrations of flowers and birds.
Gōtokuji’s Hondō Hall (本堂)
After leaving Gōtokuji’s maneki-neko offering place, you will see the temple’s main worship hall, Hondō. Gautama Buddha, Manjushri Bodhisattva, and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva (普賢菩薩) are enshrined here.
Hondō was renovated in 1967 as well. The green roof is beautifully curved on the sides and contrasts the building’s white walls. When the weather is good, how about sitting on one of the benches in front of the worship hall and the calm atmosphere created by the surrounding scenery and buildings?
Gōtokuji’s Bonshō (梵鐘)
The temple bell, Bonshō, was cast in 1679. It is known as one of the oldest bells in Tokyo. Until now, it has never been moved. The bell’s maker was Fujihara Masatsugu (藤原 正次), a renowned bell maker in the Edo period. While we can’t examine it in detail, it is a highland artwork.
Because the bell produces a beautiful sound when it is knocked, it was designated as a Sound Cultural Property (音の文化財). Unfortunately, the bell is only knocked on the New Year’s Eve and special occasions. So, some luck or planning is required to hear the bell’s sound.
Tōkyū Dentetsu’s Manekineko Tram
To celebrate the Tamagawa Line’s 100th anniversary, the Kofuku-no-Manekineko-Densha (幸福の招き猫電車) was created. The entire 300-series trams were re-decorated and transformed into the beckoning cat of good fortune trams, and they debuted in September 2017. Not only was the exterior of the trams painted white with multiple beckoning cats drawn, but adorable cat footprints could be seen on the tram floor (the 4th photo in the IG post). Moreover, even the hanging straps were turned into lucky cats (the 3rd photo in the IG post)!
While the Manekineko Tram disappeared from the tram track in 2018, it reappeared in 2019, with more cat features added to commemorate Setagawa Line’s 50 years of service. This time, cat ears were added to the cat face at the tram’s front and images of cat bells were drawn on the sides of where two carriages connect.
While in Japanese only, if you are keen to take the Manekineko Tram, HERE is the service’s timetable. You can translate it using your browser’s translation function.
Gōtokuji’s Opening Hours and Access Information
- Gōtokuji is open from 6 pm to 5 pm.
- The temple office is open from 8 am to 3 pm.
- Gōtokuji is a 5-minute walk from Miyanosaka Station (宮の坂駅) on the Tokyu-Setagaya Line (東急世田谷線) or a 15-minute walk from Odakyu’s Gotokuji Station (豪徳寺駅).
Tip: If you get off at Gotokuji Station, look for the directory signs with the lucky cat images to get to Gōtokuji. We followed Google Maps and it led us to a completely different location (´▽｀*).
While it will take longer, we recommend visiting Gōtokuji from Odakyu’s Gotokuji Station. A maneki-neko will greet you as soon as you step out of the station, making it the best start of the maneki-neko pilgrimage.
The Gotokuji Shopping Street, which used to be the approach to Gōtokuji Temple, continues from the huge maneki-neko statue. The street is enlivened by beckoning cats decors and illustrations scattered along the street. Some shops and cafes even have maneki-neko related products!
Explore Tokyo’s Hidden Gem, Kichijōji
If you are after a less busy part of Tokyo to spend a day and are unsure where to head, we recommend visiting Kichijōji, a few stations away from Shinjuku.
While Kichijōji is in Tokyo, it still has its own vibe! Hidden in the urban jungle are many unique cafés and shops! We are sure you will be pleasantly surprised by the neighborhood that was voted “The Most Desirable Area to Live” in Tokyo!
Refer to our Kichijōji article for more information!
