Vegetarian's Japan Guide

Fuchinobō: Nagano’s Top Shukubō & Its Exquisite Shōjin Ryōri

Zenkoji Temple is the landmark around Nagano Station. Speaking of temple, the term Shōjin Ryōri (精進料理) might pop into your head. The best place to try the monk cuisine close to the temple is Fuchinobō (淵之坊). It is one of the 39 sub-temples of Zenkoji Temple that allow visitors to stay overnight (Shukubō, 宿坊). If you don’t have the time or budget for an overnight stay, having lunch at Fuchinobō is another option!

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Fuchinobō’s Shōjin Ryōri

Fuchinobō’s Shōjin Ryōri is completely vegan. In addition, the food is prepared allium-free (no onion, garlic, leeks, chives, or asafoetida). The photo below shows what was placed on the table, which was elegantly presented and delicious.

The represented dish amongst the multi-course meal is called Full Moon (Mangetsu, 満月). The moon’s filling is made using stir-fried shiitake mushrooms and other vegetables with walnuts and miso. Japanese yam grown in Nagano Prefecture is used to wrap the filling to form the white moon.

Other small dishes are also carefully prepared and elegantly designed. You will be treated to one of the most phenomenal vegan meals you will ever have in Japan!

    • The Special Shōjin Kaiseki courses, Zen (善) and Hikari (光), are served in a private room. Each course has 15 dishes and costs 6,600 yen and 5,500 yen, respectively.
    • The Shōjin Kaiseki courses, En (縁) and Yui (結), are usually served in the large hall. Each course has 11 dishes. They cost 4,400 yen and 3,300 yen, respectively.

    Our Visit to Fuchinobō

    During the peak season, such as autumn, a lunch reservation at Fuchinobō is hard to come by. We only remembered to book in early October for our visit at the end of the month. By then, lunch and dinner were all booked out on the days we would be in Nagano. It felt hopeless after a couple of emails back and forth with the temple.

    But we didn’t give up. We emailed the temple again a few days before we departed for Japan to check if we could stop by the temple on the day to see if anyone canceled their booking on short notice. And the temple replied back with good news!

    On the day, we were fortunate enough to be seated in a private room on the second floor despite ordering only the cheapest course. A couple of the 11-course dishes were already on the table, and each of them looked gorgeous!

    The staff must be very experienced in bringing out the rest of the dishes. They always knocked on the door at the perfect time. We didn’t feel rushed or frustrated while enjoying the food. When asked about how a dish is made and the ingredients, the staff also patiently explained to us.

    In fact, we felt like a VIP! The shoe case and the room had our name labeled (refer to the 3rd and the 4th photo in the IG post).

    After lunch, I asked the staff to see if it was possible to check out the temple’s bathing facility. The staff happily showed me their two bathing areas. He even let me take photos of the bath (many accommodation facilities in Japan rejected the request even during the daily scheduled cleaning time)!

    Overall, Fuchinobō easily topped the restaurants in Japan where we had Kaiseki Ryōri. Each dollar is well spent, and we will definitely come back!

    Spending at Night at Fuchinobō

    We highly recommend spending a night at Fuchinobō. It is one of those experiences that will allow you to fully adore Japanese culture. The staff there is friendly and offers top-notch service. If you can’t speak Japanese, an English-speaking volunteer guide will show you around when you participate in Zenkoji’s morning service.

    In the morning, you can attend the Oasaji (お朝事) and the Rosary Blessing (O-Juzu Chōdai, お数珠頂戴), the unique morning rituals at Zenkoji Temple. During the morning visit guided by Fuchinobō’s staff, you can explore Zenkoji’s main hall (Hondō, 本堂) without being disturbed by other day visitors.

    The guestrooms at Fuchinobō are spacious. The temple can arrange for you to sleep on Western-style beds. However, please let them know in advance, as the number of beds is limited. You can use the freight elevator if you can’t or don’t want to climb the stairs.

    Unlike most Shukubō in Japan, Fuchinobō’s facilities have been upgraded to modern technology, making staying in the traditional-style building more comfortable. Just note that bathrooms, washbasins, and toilets are shared.

    Tip: In winter, winter attire may be rented out if you need more warm clothes to join the Oasaji.

    Dinner is served in your room. The staff will bring the Shōjin Ryōri while you are bathing. If you have any valuables, you can leave them inside the lockers in your room.

    The schedule of your stay at Fuchinobō is likely to be as follows: Check-in (3 pm) → Shower/bathing → Dinner/Shōjin Ryōri (6 pm) → Bedtime → Oasaji + O-Juzu Chōdai (this can be as early as 5 am) → Breakfast → Check-out (10 am)

    Refer to HERE for more information about Oasaji + O-Juzu Chōdai.

    How to Reserve Your Lunch and Your Stay at Fuchinobō

    Explore Other Attractions Around Zenkoji

    Nagano-Station-Nagano-Japan
    Click the photo to find out where else to visit around Nagano Station!

    There are many attractions and shops that might interest you around Fuchinobō. During the day, the area is so lively that it sometimes can be as packed as Tokyo!

    For more information on wherelse is worth your time, please refer to our article on A Guide to the Attractions Around Nagano Station!

    Explore the Chestnuts Town: Obuse

    If you aren’t in a hurry, we recommend you stop by Obuse for the delicious chestnut desserts and the dramatic ukiyo-e that the town is famous for.

    Find out more about what you can do and where to go, and of course, where to eat when you get to this gorgeous town with our Obuse article (=゚ω゚)ノ.

    You can even visit someone’s backyard without notifying the owner!

    Obuseto
    Find out how to get to this scenic spot by clicking the photo!

    Visit the Snow Monkeys in Jigokudani Monkey Park

    Jigokudani-Snow-Monkey-Park-Nagano-Japan
    Click the photo to find out how to see the monkeys in the hot spring!

    We have all seen humans enjoying the hot spring. Especially in winter, you might have indulged in the onsen yourself to warm up and let the rich minerals moisturize your skin.

    But have you ever seen monkeys doing the same?

    If you are interested, follow our article on Jigokudani Monkey Park to find out the best time of the year to visit and how to get there!

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