Experience the timeless elegance of the Heian period at Jōnangū Shrine (城南宮), a serene sanctuary in southern Kyoto that remains one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Known as the “Garden of Flowers” from The Tale of Genji, Jōnangū is world-renowned for its breathtaking weeping plum blossoms (shidare-ume) and vibrant camellias that transform the grounds into a pink-and-white paradise every late winter. Beyond its seasonal beauty, this historic shrine is a cornerstone of Japanese spiritual life, serving for over 1,200 years as a guardian against misfortune and a protector of safe travels. Whether you are a photographer chasing the “magical carpet” of fallen blossoms or a traveler seeking directional protection (houyoke) for your upcoming journey, our guide covers everything from the Heian poetry festivals to the best ways to reach this tranquil escape from Kyoto Station.
What to See at Jōnangū Shrine
Jōnangū’s History
In 794, Japan’s capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto, and Jōnangū was built south of the imperial palace to pray for the new capital’s peace and prosperity. Hence, the shrine was named “Jōnan”, which means the southern part of the city.
The ancient Japanese believed that the Four Sacred Beasts protected the capital. Each protects the capital from evil spirits from the direction they are based in. The red phoenix (朱雀) looks after the south, the direction where Jōnangū was constructed.
Thus, the god at Jōnangū is seen as the one who could ward off misfortune and bring blessings from different directions (Hōyoke no Kami, 方除けの神). The locals would pray at Jōnangū for blessings before relocating and traveling.
Directions and One’s Luck: In Japan, it is believed that each person has good and bad directions for each year.
Jōnangū and the Tale of Genji
In the late Heian period, the Jōnan Imperial Villa was constructed near the shrine. As a result, the area became the base of the cloistered government led by the Cloistered Emperors at the time. Besides rituals, banquets and traditional games popular among the upper class were regularly held at the imperial villa, making it the cultural center of the Heian dynasty.
Moreover, the imperial family would spend seven days at Jōnan Imperial Villa, purifying themselves and praying for a safe journey, before making a pilgrimage to Kumano Shrine in Wakayama Prefecture. It was also where Princess Kazu (和宮親子内親王) prayed before she traveled to Edo (today’s Tokyo) to be married to the 14th Shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Tokugawa Iemochi (徳川家茂).
Remnants of the aristocratic lifestyle can still be seen today in the shrine’s garden, Rakusuien (楽水苑), elaborately decorated with seasonal flowers and a pond filled with colored carp.. Because over 80 species of plants depicted in “The Tale of Genji” are planted here, the garden is known as the Tale of Genji Flower Garden (源氏物語花の庭).
In addition, the Winding Stream Party (Kyokusui-no-Utage, 曲水の宴), first held in the Heian period, is still held on April 29 (Showo Day) at Jōnangū. During the ceremony, poets dressed in elegant period costumes, such as kariginu (hunting robes) and kouchigi (traditional court dress), compose waka poems as cups of sake (usho) float down the stream on bird-shaped saucers. Each poet must finish their poem before the cup reaches them.
It is a graceful, living “dynasty scroll” that brings the refined culture of the imperial court back to life.
How to Join Jonangu’s Winding Stream Party (Kyokusui-no-Utage)
To join the Kyokusui-no-Utage at Jonangu Shrine, you must participate in a draw by sending a return postcard (ofuku hagaki). Since the event is scheduled for April 29th, the application window usually opens in early March and closes at the end of March.
Application Requirements
- Method: Return postcard (ofuku hagaki) only. No phone or online applications are accepted.
- Deadline: Typically March 31st (must arrive by this date).
- Capacity: Roughly 160 people are chosen by lottery.
- Limit: One postcard can apply for up to two people.
- Age Restriction: Junior high school students and older only.
- Fee: If selected, there is a “Hitsu-ryo” (participation/offering fee) of 2,000 yen per person, payable on the day.
How to Fill Out the Postcard
You can buy a return postcard (ofuku hagaki) at any Japanese post office or convenience store. It consists of two attached cards: the Outgoing Postcard and the Return Postcard.
On the Outgoing Postcard (Going to the Shrine):
- Front (Address Side):〒612-8459 京都市伏見区中島鳥羽離宮町７番地 城南宮 「曲水の宴」 係 行
- Back (Message Side):
- Your name (and the name of your companion, if applying for two).
- Your address.
- Your phone number.
On the Return Postcard (Coming back to you):
- Front (Address Side): Write your own name and mailing address.
- Back (Message Side): Leave this blank (the shrine will print your result here).
Important Tips
- Domestic Address Only: The reply must be sent to a Japanese address. If you are visiting from abroad, you may need a friend in Japan to handle the postcard for you.
- Multiple Applications: Sending multiple postcards for the same person/group will disqualify you.
- Weather: If it rains, the outdoor ceremony is canceled and replaced by a private ritual inside the shrine building, which select winners may still be able to observe.
The Famous Historical Battles and Jōnangū
As the base of the cloistered government, Jōnangū was where Cloistered Emperor Go-Toba (後鳥羽上皇) raised an army in an attempt to take down Hōjō Yoshitoki (北条義時) in 1221. The battle resulted in the Cloistered Emperor’s exile and the start of the Kamakura shogunate. Jōnan Imperil Villa continued to exist up until the 14th century.
Because horseback archery was used as an excuse to recruit soldiers, the ritual was not held again until 2005, more than 1,000 years after the historical event.
The conflict between Cloistered Emperor Go-Toba and Hōjō Yoshitoki wasn’t the only time Jōnangū was involved in battles. During the Battle of Toba–Fushimi (鳥羽・伏見の戦い) in the late Edo period, the shrine served as the base of the Satsuma force. The battle began when the Satsuma clan attacked the Tokugawa shogunate’s forces with cannons placed on the approach. The area became a fierce battleground.
After winning the battle, the Satsuma clan paid homage to Jōnangū, believing their victory was due to the shrine’s god’s blessing.
Kikusui Wakamizu Spring (菊水若水)
When visiting a Japanese shrine or temple, washing your hands at a purification fountain before entering the worship hall is a basic requirement. But that isn’t the only thing you can do at Jōnangū’s purification fountain. Since it is also a drinking fountain, you might see a few locals filling their water containers from the back!
For a long time, the water there has been said to cure all illnesses, attracting many pilgrims to the source of water every day. One of the Cloistered Emperor’s toothaches was cured after drinking it! So if you have a water bottle with you, fill it with this sacred water as a part of your pilgrimage to the shrine!
Rakusuien Garden (楽水苑), Jōnangū Shrine’s Beautiful Garden
To truly appreciate Jōnangū, you must explore its magnificent Rakusuien Garden. Covering over 30,000 square meters, the garden is divided into five distinct sections, each meticulously designed to represent the evolution of Japanese landscaping across different historical eras.
Designed in the 1960s by the legendary landscape architect Nakane Kinsaku, a walk through these gardens is a journey through time.
1. Haru-no-Yama (春の山)
- Style: Heian Period Forest Garden
- The Vibe: Lush, soft, and romantic.
- Highlight: This is the most famous section for photographers. It features a man-made hill covered in 300 camellia bushes and 150 weeping plum trees. In late February, the fallen plum petals create a stunning “pink carpet” over the deep green moss, a scene often described as a glimpse of paradise.
2. Heian Garden (平安の庭)
- Style: Heian Period (794–1185)
- The Vibe: Aristocratic and elegant.
- Highlight: This garden recreates the style of a nobleman’s villa. It centers around a large pond and a winding stream (yarimizu). This is the stage for the Kyokusui-no-Utage (Poetry Party), where participants in Heian-era robes compose poems as cups of sake float past them on the water.
3. Muromachi Garden (室町の庭)
- Style: Muromachi Period (1336–1573)
- The Vibe: Zen-influenced and bold.
- Highlight: Reflecting the era when tea ceremony and Noh drama flourished, this garden features majestic stone arrangements and a large pond filled with koi. Look for the “Horaijima” (Island of the Immortals) in the center, symbolizing longevity.
4. Momoyama Garden (桃山の庭)
- Style: Momoyama Period (1573–1603)
- The Vibe: Grand and “Worldly.”
- Highlight: This is a karesansui (dry landscape) garden that uses a vast lawn to represent the Pacific Ocean and clipped trees to symbolize the mountains of Japan. A unique pine tree, pruned into the shape of a European ship, sits in the corner, representing Japan’s first contact with the West during this era.
5. Jōnan Rikyu Garden (城南離宮の庭)
- Highlight: This final garden depicts the Jōnan Imperial Villa as it appeared 1,000 years ago. It uses white pebbles to represent a pond and large rocks to mark where the old palace buildings once stood, serving as a silent tribute to the shrine’s imperial past.
- Style: Early Heian / Detached Palace Style
- The Vibe: Abstract and historical.
The Plum Blossoms at Jōnangū
150 plum blossoms can be found across Jōnangū’s precinct. From late February to early March, the most picturesque scene at the shrine is a hill-like area called the Spring Mountain (Haru no Yama, 春の山). The scene of the magnificent blooming weeping plums, contrasting the light green moss-covered ground with the red fallen camellias, enchants many visitors each year.
After passing the Haru no Yama area, four Japanese gardens follow. Rare camellia varieties and other plum varieties are grown there.
During the plum blossom season, the Weeping Plum and Camelia Festival (しだれ梅と椿まつり) is held every year. As its name suggests, the camellias also play a central role in entertaining the pilgrims.
During the festival period, the Umegaekagura Dance (梅が枝神楽) is held at 10 am and 3 pm every day. It is a sacred dance performed by shrine maidens holding a plum branch and wearing a plum blossom in their crowns.
- The Weeping Plum and Camelia Festival is held from February 18 to March 22 every year.
- The admission fee is:
- 1,000 yen for adults
- 600 yen for elementary school students
- The plums at Jōnangū reached full bloom on February 17 in 2024, around two weeks earlier than the prior year’s average. But in 2025, the season only reached its peak on March 11, the latest since 2011.
- For past plum blossom blooming dates, refer to the end of Jōnangū’s Official Weeping Plum Web Page.
Tip: Arrive early for the handmade camelia rice cake (椿餅) sold at the shrine’s approach during the festival’s weekend. The traditional confectionery in camelia shape is made by Shōfudō (松甫堂).
Jōnangū Flower Calendar
While Jōnangū is most famous for its weeping plums, the shrine is a “four-season” garden that offers something spectacular nearly every month of the year. Refer to the table below to plan your trip!
| Season | Month | Flower / Event | Why It’s Special |
| Late Winter | Late February to mid-March | Weeping Plum & Camellia | The 2026 Festival runs Feb 18 – Mar 22. The “pink carpet” peak is usually in early March. |
| Spring | late March to early April | Cherry Blossoms (Sakura) | Features rare varieties like Beni-shidare (Red Weeping Cherry) and Ichiyo. |
| Late Spring | mid-April to early May | Wisteria (Around 20 days from mid-April) & Azaleas (late April to early May) | Famous for its purple wisteria trellises and vibrant pink azaleas around the ponds. |
| Summer | June to July | Hydrangea & Iris | The garden turns lush green with pops of blue and purple during the rainy season. |
| Autumn | Late November to early December | Maple Leaves (Momiji) | Over 100 maple trees turn brilliant red, perfectly reflecting in the garden’s ponds. |
The Best Time to Visit Jōnangū
In addition to the plum blossoms, other plants also color Jōnangū’s precinct at different times of the year:
- Cherry blossoms: The 10 red weeping cherry blossoms bloom from late March to early April.
- Wisterias: Around 20 days from mid-April
- Azaleas: From late April to early May
- Jōnangū’s fall foliage season peaks between late November and early December.
- Jōnangū has around 400 camellias of 150 species. From September, different kinds of camellias bloom one after another until late March.
The Weeping Plum & Camellia Festival
This is the shrine’s “Super Bowl.” While the 150 weeping plums steal the show, look down at the moss to see the fallen camellias. The contrast of red flowers against the deep green moss is a signature Jōnangū image.
Tip: Don’t miss the Umegae-Kagura (梅が枝神楽) dance performed by shrine maidens (miko) during the festival at 10 am and 3 pm. They wear plum sprigs in their hair and perform a sacred dance to ward off misfortune.
Wisteria & The “Tale of Genji” Plants
From late April to early May, the garden features plants mentioned in the classic novel The Tale of Genji. The wisteria here is particularly elegant, draping over the same streams where the imperial nobility once held poetry contests.
The Autumn “Momiji” Reflection
If you miss the flowers, late November to early December is the next best time to visit. The Muromachi and Momoyama gardens are designed specifically to highlight the change in leaf color. It is far less crowded than central Kyoto spots like Eikan-do, making it a “hidden gem” for autumn photography.
Jōnangū Shrine’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Jōnangū is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm.
- The last admission is at 4 pm.
- The admission fee to the shrine garden (Shinen, 神苑) varies between 300 yen and 1,000 yen for adults (300 yen and 600 yen for children), depending on when you visit the shrine.
- Jōnangū is a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Subway and Kintetsu’s Takeda Station (竹田駅).
- Bus services also stop close to Jōnangū, but the number of services is not frequent.
- Use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Regardless of the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtedly Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots you can add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, their elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
