Jōnangū (城南宮) can be considered one of the top three plum blossom spots in Kyoto City. Many Japanese know the shrine because of the plum blossoms. The scene created by the carefully maintained weeping plums and fallen camellias is just breathtaking. But what most people aren’t aware of is that Jōnangū appeared in a few key events in Japanese history.
Table of Contents
- Jōnangū’s History
- Kikusui Wakamizu Spring (菊水若水)
- The Plum Blossoms at Jōnangū
- Jōnangū’s Flower Calendar
- Jōnangū Shrine’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
Jōnangū’s History
In 794, Japan’s capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto, and Jōnangū was built south of the imperial palace to pray for the new capital’s peace and prosperity. Hence, the shrine was named “Jōnan”, which means the southern part of the city.
The ancient Japanese believed that the capital was protected by the Four Sacred Beasts. Each protects the capital from evil spirits from the direction they are based. The red phoenix (朱雀) looks after the south, the direction where Jōnangū was constructed.
Thus, the god at Jōnangū is seen as the one who could ward off misfortune and bring blessings from different directions (Hōyoke no Kami, 方除けの神). The locals also pray for blessings before relocating and traveling at Jōnangū.
Directions and One’s Luck: In Japan, it is believed that there are good and bad directions for each person each year.
Jōnangū and the Imperial Court
In the late Heian period, the Jōnan Imperial Villa was constructed near the shrine. As a result, the area became the base of the cloistered government led by the Cloistered Emperors at the time. Besides rituals, banquets and traditional games popular in the upper class were regularly held at the imperial villa, making it the cultural centre of the Heian dynasty.
Moreover, the imperial family members would spend seven days at Jōnan Imperial Villa purifying themselves and praying for a safe journey before making a pilgrimage to Kumano Shrine in Wakayama Prefecture. It was also where Princess Kazu (和宮親子内親王) prayed before she traveled to Edo (today’s Tokyo) to be married to the 14th Shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Tokugawa Iemochi (徳川家茂).
Remnants of the aristocratic lifestyle can still be seen today in the garden called The Tales of Genji’s Flower Garden (源氏物語花の庭), elaborately decorated with seasonal flowers and a pond filled with colored carp.
In addition, the Winding Stream Party (Kyokusui-no-Utage, 曲水の宴) that was first held in the Heian period is still held twice a year at Jōnangū. Participants still wear costumes 10 centuries ago while they compose waka poems and enjoy sake by the small stream in the shrine.
Tip: If you are in Kyoto on the 29th of April or the 3rd of November, stop by Jōnangū. You won’t get much chance to see a scene where a ceramic vessel holding sake floats on a small stream. The event starts at 2 pm.
The Famous Historical Battles and Jōnangū
As the base of the cloistered government, Jōnangū was where Cloistered Emperor Go-Toba (後鳥羽上皇) raised an army in an attempt to take down Hōjō Yoshitoki (北条義時) in 1221. The battle resulted in the Cloistered Emperor’s exile and the start of the Kamakura shogunate. Jōnan Imperil Villa continued to exist until the 14th century.
Because horseback archery was used as an excuse to recruit soldiers, the ritual was never held again since the historical event until 2005.
The conflict between Cloistered Emperor Go-Toba and Hōjō Yoshitoki wasn’t the only time Jōnangū was involved in battles. During the Battle of Toba–Fushimi (鳥羽・伏見の戦い) in the late Edo period, the shrine was where the Satsuma force was based. The battle began when the Satsuma clan attacked the Tokugawa shogunate’s forces with cannons placed on the approach. The area became a fierce battleground.
Winning the battle, the Satsuma clan made a homage to Jōnangū as it believed their victory was thanks to the shrine’s god’s blessing.
Kikusui Wakamizu Spring (菊水若水)
Washing hands at a purification fountain before heading to the worship hall is a basic requirement when visiting a Japanese shrine or temple. But that isn’t the only thing you can do at Jōnangū’s purification fountain. It is also a drinking water fountain, so you might see a few locals filling their water containers from the back of the fountain.
For a long time, the water here has been said to cure all illnesses, attracting many pilgrims to source water every day. One of the Cloistered Emperor’s toothaches was cured after drinking it! Thus, if you have a water bottle, fill it with this sacred water as a part of your pilgrimage to the shrine!
The Plum Blossoms at Jōnangū
150 plum blossoms can be found across Jōnangū’s precinct. From late February to early March, the most picturesque scene at the shrine is a hill-like area called the Spring Mountain (Haru no Yama, 春の山). The scene of the magnificent blooming weeping plums contrasting the light green moss-covered ground with the red fallen camellias enchants many visitors each year.
After passing the Haru no Yama area, four Japanese gardens follow. Rare species of camellias and other varieties of plums are grown here.
So, during the plum blossom season, the Weeping Plum and Camelia Festival (しだれ梅と椿まつり) is held every year. As its name suggests, the camellias also play a central role in entertaining the pilgrims.
During the festival period, the Umegaekagura Dance (梅が枝神楽) is held at 10 am and 3 pm every day. It is a sacred dance performed by shrine maidens holding a plum branch and wearing a plum blossom in her crown.
- The Weeping Plum and Camelia Festival is held from the 18th of February to the 22nd of March every year.
- The admission fee is
- 1,000 yen for adults
- 600 yen for elementary school students
- The plums at Jōnangū reached full bloom on February 17, 2024, around two weeks earlier than the prior year’s average.
- For past plum blossom blooming dates, refer to the end of Jōnangū’s Official Weeping Plum Web Page.
Tip: Arrive early for the handmade camelia rice cake (椿餅) that is sold at the shrine’s approach during the festival period’s weekends. The traditional confectionery in camelia shape is made by Shōfudō (松甫堂).
Jōnangū’s Flower Calendar
In addition to the plum blossoms, other plants also color Jōnangū’s precinct at different times of the year.
- Cherry blossoms: The 10 red weeping cherry blossoms bloom from late March to early April.
- Wisterias: Around 20 days from mid-April
- Azaleas: from late April to early May
- Jōnangū’s fall foliage season peaks between late November and early December.
- Jōnangū has around 400 camellias of 150 species. From September, different kinds of camellias bloom one after another until late March.
Jōnangū Shrine’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Jōnangū is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm.
- The last admission is at 4 pm.
- The admission fee to the shrine garden (Shinen, 神苑) varies between 300 yen and 1,000 yen for adults (300 yen and 600 yen for children).
- Jōnangū is a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Subway and Kintetsu’s Takeda Station (竹田駅).
- Bus services also stop close to Jōnangū, but the number of services isn’t frequent.
- Use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.
