If you are walking towards Zenkoji Temple from Nagano Station or the other way around, stop by Karukayasan Saikōji Temple (刈萱山西光寺). While the precinct is compact, it is where you can experience Etoki, a cultural activity you can hardly come across anywhere else. This temple should also interest those who previously visited the Karukaya-dō Mitsugon-in (苅萱堂 密厳院) in Kōyasan.
Table of Contents
- About Karukayasan Saikōji Temple
- The Main Buddha Image at Saikōji Temple
- Etoki at Saikōji Temple
- One of the Seven Lucky Gods: Jurōjin (寿老人)
- Our Visit to Saikōji Temple
- Saikōji’s Opening Hours and Access Information
About Karukayasan Saikōji Temple
Karukayasan Saikōji was founded by a monk called Karukaya Dōshin (苅萱 道心), who was originally trained in Karukaya-dō Mitsugon-in (苅萱堂 密厳院).
For a background story about his reason for traveling to Zenkō-ji, please refer to our article on Kōyasan.
Assuming you have read the story of Ishidōmaru in the Karukaya-dō Mitsugon-in section of our Kōyasan article, it should be noted that both Karukaya Dōshin (the father) and Ishidōmaru (the son) ended up in Nagano.
Arriving at Nagano, Karukaya founded Saikōji Temple in 1199 (originally a small hut), where he later passed away in 1214. At the time, Ishidōmaru, who was at Kōyasan, saw purple clouds floating around Nagano. Observing this unusual scene, he realized that Karukaya had departed for another world, which made him head over to Nagano.
Inheriting Karukaya’s will, he became the second head monk of Saikōji, who later passed away in 1216 at the age of 63.
On the temple’s precinct, you should be able to find a monk statue facing a boy statue. These two statues illustrate Karukaya and Ishidōmaru’s encounter when they first met at Kōyasan.
When you visit Saikōji Temple, you should see a wooden pillar standing in front of the worship hall (refer to the second photo in the Instagram post). The pillar is called Ekō Hashira (回向柱). Before you enter the worship hall and pray to the Buddha, please remember to touch the pillar. It is said that the pillar has the effect of cleansing your mind and body. You will also receive the same benefit as touching the main Buddha statue by touching it.
There are a couple more Ekō Hashira close to the temple’s gate (the 3rd photo in the IG post). They are the pillars used previously. The locals also touched them before leaving the temple when we were there.
The Main Buddha Image at Saikōji Temple
Similar to the Jizō Bodhisattva statue they made together at Karukaya-dō Mitsugon-in, although carved at different times, both Karukaya and Ishidōmaru made a Jizo Bodhisattva statue at Saikōji as well. The statues were made with a wish for a smooth and safe delivery during childbirth as well as successful parenting.
The Jizō statues they made are now the main Buddhist statues in the temple. While hard to see the details of the statues, you can see the two dark-colored statues enshrined inside the main altar.
Etoki at Saikōji Temple
Saikōji is also a temple known for delivering Buddha’s teachings through Etoki (絵解き). When you visit a Buddhist site, have you found yourself trying really hard to figure out what the messages of the paintings in front of you are trying to deliver?
Etoki was originally a way to spread Buddha’s teaching to those who encountered it. It can be held by anyone who understands the messages that the painting is trying to convey to those who don’t. This way, the teaching can be passed on to future generations, even if one can’t read.
So, the painting on the scroll is divided into smaller boxes. Each presents a part of the story/message. It can also be said that today’s manga originates from Etoki.
In the Kamakura period, Etoki was used as a tool for story-telling. As time passed, it became entertainment enjoyed by commoners in the Edo period.
Although the Etoki sessions at Saikōji are only delivered in Japanese and require a 500 yen participation fee, you are free to admire the paintings on the folding screens.
Strolling around the temple is also free of charge.
Of course, you are welcome to pay the fee and enjoy the vibe of the story-telling in a foreign language. With an understanding of Karukaya and Ishidōmaru’s story, you might still be able to enjoy the session with the changes in the presenter’s tone. She would also point to various sessions of the painting to help creating a visual image of the story in your head.
One of the Seven Lucky Gods: Jurōjin (寿老人)
There are seven lucky gods scattered in the area between Nagano Station and Zenkō-ji Temple. One of them is at Saikōji.
The statue of this elderly man is known for looking after one’s fortune and longevity. The peach on his left hand is known as the Longevity Peach (Furō chōju no Momo, 不老長寿の桃).
When you see him, remember to make a wish!
Our Visit to Saikōji Temple
I got to Saikōji in the late afternoon. Fortunately, there weren’t other pilgrims lining up for the Goshen. Thus, the lady (Tamae-san) who served me brought me straight to the main worship hall, where the Etoki scrolls were exhibited. You can choose from two Etoki courses: Karukaya and Ishidōmaru’s story or a tour of hell and how the Buddha would help those who suffer there.
I chose the story of Karukaya and Ishidōmaru. A feather was used to point to the part of the painting she was going through. Interestingly, a few parts of the painting was used more than once as the story unfolded. This was only possible because the narrator was pointing to different parts of the painting as she went through the story. Today’s manga won’t be able to achieve the same, as it would be ridiculous to tell the reader to flip back and forth of the book!
Because Saikōji’s Etoki involves waka poems, I couldn’t understand everything Tamae-san said. However, with an understanding of the story beforehand and the changes in tone, the session was much more enjoyable.
After the Etoki session, she told me that the temple only brought Etoki back in the late 20th century. Her mother-in-law felt Etoki was worth passing down to future generations, so she created the scripts and books to use. After Tamae-san was married to the family, Etoki was passed on to her and became something important in her life. Having the skill, she was invited to present Etoki in France three times!
After the Etoki session, she told me that the temple only brought Etoki back in the late 20th century. Her mother-in-law felt Etoki was worth passing down to future generations, so she created the scripts and books to use. After Tamae-san was married to the family, Etoki was passed on to her and became something important in her life. Having the skill, she was invited to present Etoki in France three times!
Saikōji’s Opening Hours and Access Information
- Saikōji opens from 8 am to 4:30 pm in winter and 8 am to 5 pm for other seasons.
- It is a 7-minute walk from Nagano Station and just in front of the bus stop – Karukayamasan-mae (かるかや山前)).
Tip: If you find yourself lost, instead of asking the locals for Saikōji, it is better to ask for Karukayasan.
Discover the Awesomeness of Zenkoji Temple and the Surrounding Attractions Around Nagano Station
Of course, Saikōji isn’t the only spot that is worth your time around Nagano Station. Besides the famous Zenkoji, there are many more shops and restaurants that you might want to check out!
So, for more information about other places we recommend to stop by, refer to our article on The Best Guide to Attractions Around Nagano Station.
