Nagaoka Tenmangū (長岡天満宮) in Kyoto that venerates Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真) is one of the top Tenmangū shrines in Japan. Unlike other Tenmangū shrines, the one in Nagaoka has a wooden statue of Michizane that he made himself as the subject of worship. On the vast grounds of approximately 20,000 square meters, you can enjoy seasonal colors, especially the azaleas that lined the shrine’s approach.
Table of Contents
- About Nagaoka Tenmangū
- Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Big Torii Gate
- The Hakubaiden (白梅殿): Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Ema Plaque Hall
- The Scenic Hachijōgaike Pond (八条ヶ池)
- The Plum Blossoms at Nagaoka Tenmangū
- Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Fall Foliage Season
- Nagaoka Tenmangū Shrine’s Opening Hours and Access Information
About Nagaoka Tenmangū
Nagaoka was where Michizane enjoyed poetry orchestra before he was demoted to Dazaifu in 901. Thus, on his way to Kyūshū, he stopped by the city and said: May my soul remain in this land for a long time (我が魂長くこの地にとどまるべし). Regarding the wooden Michizane statue, he didn’t make it so he could be worshipped, of course. It was gifted to one of his servants (中小路宗則) during his short stay in Nagaoka.
Refer to our Dazaifu Tenmangū article to learn more about Michizane’s life story.
While the exact date of Nagaoka Tenmangū’s erection remains unknown, the shrine was devastated in Ōnin War (応仁の乱) in 1467. The shrine was rebuilt in 1498. Because the imperial family highly revered Nagaoka Tenmangū, it received frequent donations for its construction and renovation.
For example, Hachijōgaike Pond in front of the shrine was created in 1638 by Hachijō-no-miya Toshitada-shinnō (八条宮智忠親王), an imperial family member who also built Katsura Imperial Villa (桂離宮). The pond enhances Nagaoka Tenmangū’s appearance and serves as irrigation water.
The current worship hall was originally the main worship hall in Heian Jingū (平安神宮). It was relocated to Nagaoka in 1941. The decision wasn’t made randomly. It was due to the connection that both shrines have with Emperor Kanmu (桓武天皇), who made both Kyoto City and Nagaoka City as Japan’s capital during his rule. The emperor shifted the capital five times before he settled in Kyoto again. As Emperor Kanmu is enshrined in Heian Jingū, the old worship hall was moved to Nagaoka Tenmangū, where the emperor was once stationed.
Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Big Torii Gate
While we don’t normally pay attention to the Torii gate in Japan because they all look similar, check out the one at Nagaoka Tenmangū. The main Torii gate was made of granite in 1998. It has a height of 9.75 meters and weighs as heavy as 50 tons!
The gate was partially damaged during an earthquake in 2018. Instead of just patching the pillars, the cracks were smartly used to create plum carvings.
The Hakubaiden (白梅殿): Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Ema Plaque Hall
If you like cultural properties, check out the ema plaque in the Hakubaiden left of the Haiden Hall (拝殿). Large, old ema plaques from the Edo period are hung underneath the ceiling. These plaques are some of the 28 emas that were offered by pilgrims a few centuries ago.
Although the ema plaques are the size of our palms, they used to be bigger than an A3-sized paper. Much effort was put into making an ema, which showed the sincerity of the pilgrims and their gratitude towards the gods.
The Scenic Hachijōgaike Pond (八条ヶ池)
A must-visit spot to stop by at Nagaoka Tenmangū is the Hachijōgaike Pond between Hankyu Nagaoka Tenjin Station (急長岡天神駅). This pond has a relaxing walking path with a circumference of approximately 1km decorated with seasonal flowers.
A recommended route is starting from the shrine’s front torii gate and traveling clockwise. From mid to late April, you will first walk through the 60-meter approach surrounded by around 100 deep red azaleas around 2.5m tall. It is the highlight in late spring at Nagaoka Tenmangū and is what the shrine is most known for.
When the azaleas are in full bloom in late April, the Spring Tourist Festival (春の観光祭り) is held. Various events, such as ikebana exhibitions and tea ceremonies, entertain visitors and create a lively atmosphere. Azalea seedlings are also on sale.
Tips:
☛ Check out the Official Website for updates on the condition of the Azalea flowers.
☛ Depending on the year, the wisterias at the restaurant Kinsuitei (錦水亭) on the southwest bank of Hachijōgaike Pond may bloom at the same time as the azaleas.
Between mid-May and August, the aquatic plant garden left to the small island in the pond is extra colorful, with irises, lotuses, and waterlilies blooming. Nagaoka’s sister city, Ningbo in China, gifted the lotuses here. The West Lake Red Lotus (西湖紅蓮) has large flowers with a diameter of around 20cm. The flowers bloom early in the morning and close off in the afternoon, so be sure to come early to see them.
The Cherry Blossom Season at Nagaoka Tenmangū
The east bank of Hachijōgaike Pond is where the cherry trees lined the promenade. Other types of plants, such as azaleas, are planted underneath the cherry trees. So, if the timing is right, you can see two kinds of flowers blooming simultaneously! Moreover, the view of the gorgeous cherry blossoms reflecting on the pond between late March and early April is breathtaking, especially when they are illuminated at night.
- The nighttime illumination at Hachijōgaike Pond took place from March 30th to April 10th, from 6 pm to 9 pm in 2024.
The Plum Blossoms at Nagaoka Tenmangū
Like other Tenmangū shrines in Japan, plum blossom is a highlight in Nagaoka Tenmangū. The plums can be found throughout the precinct. In addition, there are around 300 plums of different species in the plum grove in Nagaoka Park (長岡公園) next to the shrine. The plum blossoms usually bloom from late February to mid-March.
A one-day plum blossom festival is usually held in mid-March. To appease Michizane’s spirit, rituals involving plum blossoms are held on the day. Tea ceremonies are also held for visitors.
Nagaoka Tenmangū’s Fall Foliage Season
In addition to the plum blossoms, Nagaoka Tenmangū has many maples in its precinct, especially in the maple garden (錦景苑). The spot attracts many visitors to the shrine from mid to late November. Even during the green season, the view painted by the maples is superb.
The strolling garden on the way to the main worship hall lives up to its name. As the name suggests, this garden was created in 2007 to enjoy the autumn leaves. The scenery is like the patterns on brocade. The trees surrounding the Benten Pond have vivid colors in autumn and are illuminated when the fall foliage season peaks.
Nagaoka Tenmangū Shrine’s Opening Hours and Access Information
- Nagaoka Tenmangū is open from 9 am to 5 pm.
- The shrine is a 5 to 10-minute walk from Hankyu Nagaoka Tenjin Station (急長岡天神駅).
- From JR Nagaokakyō Station (長岡京駅), it is a 20-minute walk.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Regardless the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtably Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots for you to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flower, plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, the elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
