If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Kyoto’s city center, Ikimi Tenmangū (生身天満宮) in Nantan City is a quiet shrine worth visiting. The shrine, surrounded by many 20-meter-tall cedars and plums, will certainly make you feel refreshed. Established in the 10th century, it is recognized as Japan’s oldest Tenmangū and is a renowned destination for viewing plum blossoms. It is also a shrine where you can apply for a ritual to be performed, allowing you to pray for success in both academic and work life, and receive a unique item as a gift to the participants.
What to Do at Ikimi Tenmangu
- About Ikimi Tenmangū
- Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
- Ikimi Tenmangū’s Messenger and the Must-Buy Omamori at Ikimi Tenmangū
- The Plum Blossoms at Ikimi Tenmangū
- How to Get to Ikimi Tenmangū
About Ikimi Tenmangū
Most shrines in Japan are erected after the person enshrined has passed away. But Ikimi Tenmangū is different. A small temple was built for Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真) after he was demoted to Dazaifu in 901. Michizane passed away in Dazaifu two years after his demotion. The small temple was then turned into a shrine for him in 956. Thus, Ikimi Tenmangu is said to be the oldest Tenmangu in Japan (日本最古の天神さん).
Because the shrine was established when Michizane was still alive, it was named Ikimi.
If you are wondering why someone would build a temple for Michizane while he was still alive, it is because it was considered a gesture of friendship. Sonobe was the territory of the Sugawara clan for generations. Michizane also had a residence there. Thus, he knew Sonobe’s governor, Takebe Genzō (武部源蔵), very well. The two were actually good old friends. When Genzō heard the bad news, he traveled to Tō-ji Temple to farewell Michizane. Michizane entrusted his eighth son to Genzō for him to be raised secretly. Because of this, Genzō created a wooden statue of Michizane and built a temple to pray for Michizane’s safe return and to comfort his son.
Ikimi Tenmangu was originally at the foot of Mt. Komugi (小麦山). It was relocated to the slope of Mt. Tenjin (天神山) in 1653 to allow the construction of Sonobe Castle (園部城). The shrine was renovated and was highly revered by the feudal lords of the Sonobe Domain. You can still see the castle from Ikimi Tenmangu’s Torii gate.
Refer to our Dazaifu Tenmangū article to learn more about Michizane’s life story.
Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
There is an Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社) on the side of the approach. It was originally worshiped as the guardian deity of this land.
Nowadays, the god of the shrine is venerated as the god of female pilgrims. It is said that if female pilgrims pray there, they will become more attractive! You can also purchase a Beauty Charm (美人御守り) from the shrine office. The amulet is filled with the scent of approximately 10 different types of natural fragrant woods, including sandalwood and clove, and serves as a divine talisman.
Ikimi Tenmangū’s Messenger and the Must-Buy Omamori at Ikimi Tenmangū
Remember to stroke the bull stone statue in front of the worship hall. The bull, called Tsukai no Ushi (使いの牛), was Michizane’s messenger. The statue looks weathered because it was made in 1860. It is said that you will recover from illness if you touch the same body part of the statue and then your corresponding body part. If you pat its head, you will become wiser!
Moreover, get a golden Tsukai no Ushi bull card (金色の牛) from the shrine office. Write your wishes on the bull-shaped card and use it to stroke the statue and yourself several times while praying. Lastly, insert the card into the box next to the statue. This way, the bull will deliver your prayers to Michizane. On the 25th of each month, a ritual is performed for everyone who has inserted the card in the prior month.
You can refer to the Official Website for an image of the Golden Bull card.
The omamori amulet to get at Ikimi Tenmangu is Ten Hareru (天晴れる). Various Japanese media have broadcast it in the past. It is a work-related amulet with a wish to lead an exhilarating life, so that every day feels like a sunny day, even when the weather is gloomy outside.
The Plum Blossoms at Ikimi Tenmangū
The shrine’s plum garden is on the south side of the approach. Around 100 plums of various species are planted. The plum blossom season at Ikimi Tenmangu is from mid-February to late March, including the early and late bloomers.
The Plum Blossom Festival is held every year on the Sunday closest to March 25 as a memorial service for Michizane Sugawara. On the day, tea ceremony sessions are held, and traditional music performances are also performed.
Because the shrine is known as a place to pray for academic success, the handmade pickled plums made from the plums harvested in the precinct are called “Goukaku-ume (合格梅).” It means exam-passing plums. These plums are given to the pilgrims who have applied and gone through a ritual.
Please note that the number of Goukaku-ume Plums is limited, depending on the quantity harvested in the previous year.
How to Get to Ikimi Tenmangū
- Ikimi Tenmangū is a 12-minute walk from JR Sonobe Station (園部駅) west exit.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Despite its overtourism problem, Kyoto remains one of Japan’s most popular tourist destinations. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flowers, including plum blossoms. While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than that of the voluminous cherry blossoms, the elegant fragrance will make your visit even more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
