If you want to escape the hustle and bustle in Kyoto’s city center, Ikimi Tenmangū (生身天満宮) in Nantan City is a quant shrine you can visit. The shrine, surrounded by many 20-meter-tall cedars and plums, will certainly make you feel refreshed. Established in the 10th century, it is known as Japan’s oldest Tenmangū and is a locally famous plum blossom spot. It is also a shrine where you can apply a ritual to pray for your success in academic and work life for the unique item given to the participants!
Table of Contents
- About Ikimi Tenmangū
- Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
- Ikimi Tenmangū’s Messenger and the Must-Buy Omamori at Ikimi Tenmangū
- The Plum Blossoms at Ikimi Tenmangū
- How to Get to Ikimi Tenmangū
About Ikimi Tenmangū
Most shrines in Japan are erected after the person enshrined has passed away. But Ikimi Tenmangū is different. A small temple was built for Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真) after he was demoted to Dazaifu in 901. Michizane passed away in Dazaifu two years after his demotion. The small temple was then turned into a shrine for him in 956. Thus, Ikimi Tenmangū is said to be the oldest Tenmangū in Japan (日本最古の天神さん).
Because the shrine was established when Michizane was still alive, it was named Ikimi.
If you wonder why someone would build a temple for Michizane when he was still alive, it is a gesture of friendship. Sonobe was the territory of the Sugawara clan for generations. Michizane also had a residence there. Thus, he knew Sonobe’s governor, Takebe Genzō (武部源蔵), very well. The two were actually good old friends. So, when Genzō heard the bad news, he traveled to Tō-ji Temple to farewell Michizane. Michizane entrusted his eighth son to Genzō for him to be raised secretly. So, Genzō made a Michizane wooden statue and built a temple to pray for Michizane’s safe return and to comfort his son.
Ikimi Tenmangū was originally at the foot of Mt. Komugi (小麦山). It was relocated to the slope of Mt. Tenjin (天神山) in 1653 to allow the construction of Sonobe Castle (園部城). The shrine was renovated and was highly revered by the feudal lords of the Sonobe Domain. You can still see the castle from Ikimi Tenmangū’s Torii gate.
Refer to our Dazaifu Tenmangū article to learn more about Michizane’s life story.
Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
There is an Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社) on the side of the approach. It was originally worshiped as the guardian deity of this land.
Nowadays, the god of the shrine is venerated as the god of female pilgrims. It is said that if female pilgrims pray here, they will become more good-looking! You can also purchase a Beauty Charm (美人御守り) from the shrine office. The amulet is filled with the scent of about 10 different types of natural fragrant woods, such as sandalwood and clove, and a divine talisman.
Ikimi Tenmangū’s Messenger and the Must-Buy Omamori at Ikimi Tenmangū
Remember to stroke the bull stone statue in front of the worship hall. The bull is called Tsukai no Ushi (使いの牛), it is Michizane’s messenger. The statue looks weathered because it was made in 1860. It is said that you will recover from illness if you touch the same body part of the statue and then your body. If you pat its head, you will become wiser!
Moreover, get a golden Tsukai no Ushi bull card (金色の牛) from the shrine office. Write your wishes on the bull-shaped card and use it to stroke the statue yourself several times while praying. Lastly, insert the card into the box next to the statue. This way, the bull will bring your prayer to Michizane. On the 25th of each month, a ritual is performed for everyone who has inserted the card in the prior month.
You can refer to the Official Website for what the golden bull card looks like.
The omamori amulet to get at Ikimi Tenmangū is Ten Hareru (天晴れる). It has been broadcast by various Japanese media in the past. It is a work-related amulet with a wish to lead an exhilarating life so that it would feel like every day is a sunny day, even when the weather is gloomy outside.
The Plum Blossoms at Ikimi Tenmangū
The shrine’s plum garden is on the south side of the approach. Around 100 plums of various species are planted. The plum blossom season at Ikimi Tenmangū is from mid-February to late March, including the early and late bloomers.
The Plum Blossom Festival is held every year on the Sunday closest to March 25th as a memorial service for Michizane Sugawara. On the day, tea ceremony sessions are held. Traditional music performances are also performed.
Because the shrine is known as a place to pray for academic success, the handmade pickled plums made from the plums harvested in the precinct are called “Goukaku-ume (合格梅).” It means exam-passing plums. These plums are given to the pilgrims who have applied and gone through a ritual.
Note that the number of Goukaku-ume Plums is limited, depending on how many were harvested in the prior year.
How to Get to Ikimi Tenmangū
- Ikimi Tenmangū is a 12-minute walk from JR Sonobe Station (園部駅) west exit.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Regardless the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtably Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots for you to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flower, plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, the elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
