If you are a history buff or love historical architecture, Tō-ji (東寺), southwest of Kyoto Station, is a must-visit spot for you. It is the only remaining structure of the Kyoto from 1200 years ago. The temple houses many Japan’s national treasures and important cultural properties. In addition, it is a spot to adore seasonal colors.
Table of Contents
- About Tō-ji Temple
- Kondō Hall (金堂)
- Kōdō Hall (講堂) and Shokudō Hall (食堂)
- Mieidō (御影堂)
- Tō-ji’s Five-Story Pagoda (五重塔) and the Strolling Garden
- How Long Does It Take to Explore Tō-ji
- The Kōdō Market (弘法市)
- The Recommended Time to Visit Tō-ji and The Best Photo Spots
- Tō-ji’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
Tip: If you are a hotel guest of OMO3 Kyoto Toji (OMO3京都東寺), join the hotel’s free 90-minute Tō-ji Temple at 11 am. Refer to the Official Website for more details.
About Tō-ji Temple
Tō-ji was founded in 796 under the imperial order of Emperor Kanmu (桓武天皇) to protect the new capital and the territory. Its main image is the Healing Buddha.
The temple’s formal name is Kyō-ō-gokoku-ji (教王護国寺), which has the meaning of an esoteric Buddhist temple for the protection of the nation. In 823, Emperor Saga (嵯峨天皇) entrusted the temple to Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師). Since then, the Tō-ji Temple has been one of the main training grounds of the Shingon sect (真言宗).
Kōbō Daishi is the monk who established the Enryakuji in Mt. Hiei, the mother of Japanese Buddhism.
Although most of the main buildings were destroyed in a fire in 1486, they were rebuilt with the help of the Toyotomi and Tokugawa clans from the late 16th to the first half of the 17th century. The five-story pagoda restored in 1644 is a symbol of Kyoto and has appeared in many dramas and movies with scenes filmed in Kyoto. The Kondō Hall (金堂), rebuilt in 1603, is another building of high historical value.
In December 1994, Tō-ji, which the Japanese highly revere, was registered as a World Heritage Site.
Kondō Hall (金堂)
Compared to other buildings in the precinct, the Kondō was built the earliest. It was constructed at the same time as the capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto. Because it was built by the Imperial Court, it has a majestic appearance and has maintained that appearance for over 600 years since its completion.
The main image, Healing Buddha, has Sūryaprabha (日光菩薩) and Candraprabha (月光菩薩) on his sides. The twelve divine generals surround them.
The current Kondō was restored in 1603 by Toyotomi Hideyori after the original building was destroyed in a civil war (土一揆) in 1486. The reconstructed building, which combines Japanese and Indian elements, is in the splendid style of the Azuchi Momoyama period in 1601.
The front gate’s roof is higher, allowing a window to be installed. The same architectural style can be found at the Phoenix Hall at Uji’s Byōdō-in (平等院鳳凰堂).
Kōdō Hall (講堂) and Jikidō Hall (食堂)
The Kōdō next to Kondō is the second most important building at Tō-ji. When it was completed in 839, the two worship halls were connected by corridors. Compared to other buildings restored in the 16th century, the Kōdō Hall was rebuilt in 1491.
Inside Kōdō, there are 21 statues. 15 of them are Japan’s national treasures, and the remaining 6 are important cultural properties.
According to the Buddhist sutras, the esoteric Buddhist deities and Bodhisattva are placed around Vairocana Buddha. Together, they form a three-dimensional mandala. It is said that out of the entire temple, Kōdō put the most effort into placing the statues in this hall.
The Jikidō Hall north of Kōdō was where the monks trained and ate in the past. The current building was restored in 1930. When the Shokudō was first completed, it was also called Kannondō because a Thousand-armed Kannon Bodhisattva was enshrined there.
Nowadays, it is a sutra-copying place for visitors.
The Kondō, Kōdō, and Jikidō are lined up from south to north. This arrangement is called Buppōsō (仏法僧), the three key features in Buddhism.
- The main hall, Kondō, where the principal image is enshrined, represents the Buddha (Butsu, 仏).
- The mandala in the Kōdō expresses the teachings of Esoteric Buddhism: Hō (法).
- The Jikidō represents the last key element, monks (僧), as this is where the monks in the temple usually gather.
Mieidō (御影堂)
Mieidō (also known as Daishidō (大師堂)) was where Kōdō Daishi Kukai lived after he was entrusted Tō-ji. It was where he envisioned the three-dimensional mandala in the Kōdō Hall. The worship hall is another of Japan’s national treasures.
The original living quarter was burnt down in 1379, but it was rebuilt in 1380. Ten years later, two worship halls (礼堂と中堂) were completed for pilgrims to venerate Kōdō Daishi’s 83cm statue.
Similar to the Mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi in Mt. Kōya, two meals and tea are still brought to Mieidō for Kōdō Daishi. The ritual is referred to as Shōjinku (生身供).
Tip: If you want to see Shōjinku, arrive at the temple’s Nishimon Gate (西門前) or Mieidō’s Karamon Gate (唐門) by 5:50 am. The ritual takes place at 6 am.
Close to Mieidō, there are a couple of memorial towers and a stone monument. The stone monument that a turtle-like animal carries on its back is called Bucchōsonshōdarani (仏頂尊勝陀羅尼). It is said that chanting the mantra carved on the stone can obtain benefits such as prolonging life.
The base, which is like a turtle, is a mythical Chinese creature called Hiiki (贔屓). It is said to be one of the dragon’s nine children and likes to carry heavy things on their backs. So, since ancient times, they have often been used for the bases of stone pillars and monuments. If you touch the Hiiki and use the same hand to touch your body parts suffering from illness, the illness will be cured.
The stone monument was originally at Kitano Tenmangū, but was relocated to its current location in the mid-19th century.
Tō-ji’s Five-Story Pagoda (五重塔) and the Strolling Garden
The five-story pagoda on the precinct’s southeast corner is Kyoto’s landmark, which can be seen from the Shinkansen window. At 55 meters, it is Japan’s tallest wooden pagoda. It is said that the Buddha’s relics brought back by Kōbō Daishi from China are enshrined here.
The pagoda was first built in 826 by Kōbō Daishi. But it was destroyed four times due to fire hazards and lightning strikes. The current five-story pagoda was restored in 1644 by Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳川家光), Tokugawa shogunate’s third shōgun.
The first floor of the pagoda is only open to the public on special occasions. If you ever get to explore it, you will be amazed by the esoteric Buddhist space painted in gorgeous, rich colors on the first floor. The central pillar that runs through the pagoda is the Vairocana Buddha (大日如来). Other Buddhas and Bodhisattvas statues are placed on each floor surrounding him.
Tip: Refer to Tō-ji’s Website for the dates that the five-story pagoda is open to the public.
North of the five-story pagoda is a Japanese strolling water garden with the Hyōtan Pond (瓢箪池) in the center. Here, you can enjoy the seasonal scenery: cherry blossoms in spring, lotus flowers and fresh greenery in summer, and autumn leaves in the fall.
How Long Does It Take to Explore Tō-ji
Most people would spend 30 minutes to an hour at Tō-ji. During special exhibition periods in spring and autumn when Kanchi-in and Homotsukan are open to the public, allocate 1 to 2 hours to Tō-ji.
- The paid area, including Kondō, Kōdō, and the five-story pagoda: around 20 to 30 minutes
- The free area: 10 to 30 minutes
- Kanchi-in (観智院): 20 to 40 minutes
- Temple’s Museum, Homotsukan (宝物館), where over 25,000 items are stored: 20 to 40 minutes
The Kōdō Market (弘法市)
As Kōdō Daishi passed away on the 21st of April, a memorial service called Shōmieiku (御影供) is held on the 21st of each month. Thus, many pilgrims choose to visit the temple on the day.
On the same day, from 8 am to 4 pm, the flea market, Kōdō Market (弘法市), is held. The Kōdō Market held on the 21st of January is called the Hatsu-kōdō and is especially bustling. Usually, there are over 1,000 stalls selling food, antiques, local specialties, plants, pottery, and more.
The flea market is still open even on rainy days.
The Recommended Time to Visit Tō-ji and The Best Photo Spots
In early spring and autumn, the most photogenic spot in Tō-ji is around the five-story pagoda. The golden combination of the pagoda with the plum blossoms in late February to early March, the cherry blossoms from late March to early April, or the autumn foliage from late November to early December will be one of the best photos you take in Kyoto.
Between mid-March and mid-April and mid-November to early December, the precinct is lit up from 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm.
- The best time to get a photo of the five-story pagoda with the surrounding vegetation is in the early afternoon (between 12:30 pm and 3pm) to avoid backlighting.
- If you visit Tō-ji in the morning (especially late morning), the best photo spot is east of the Kondō Hall across the pond. On a non-windy and clear day, the worship hall and the surrounding trees are reflected on the pond, creating a stunning photo.
- Another recommended photo spot is on the footbridge at Keihin Kokudo Entrance (京阪国道口) southwest of Tō-ji. The photo will capture the temple’s south gate, Hachiman Shrine, the outer moat, and the top part of the five-story pagoda.
Tip: Visit Tō-ji around 8 am or late afternoon to avoid crowds. During the nighttime light-up period in spring and autumn, visit the temple shortly before it closes.
The Cherry Blossoms at Tō-ji
There are around 200 cherry trees in Tō-ji’s precinct. The most famous cherry tree is the 120-year-old Fujizakura (不二桜).
The weeping cherry blossom was grown in Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture and gifted to the temple in 2006. It was named after the Buddhist teaching, Fuji no Oshie (不二の教え), that Kōbō Daishi advocated. This teaching expresses the unity of the body and the environment.
Fujizakura has a height of 13 meters. Its branches stretch as far as 10 meters. So, when flowers cover the tree, the view it creates is magnificent. A photo of the Fujizakura with the five-story pagoda at the back is a must during the cherry blossom season at Tō-ji.
The Plum Blossoms at Tō-ji
The plum grove close to the five-story pagoda at Tō-ji is newly created. The 10 white and red plums usually bloom from late February to early March. If you are lucky, you might see both the plum blossoms and the Kawazu cherry blossoms (河津桜) blooming at the same time.
Tō-ji’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Tō-ji is open from 8 am to 5 pm.
- The last admission is at 4:30 pm.
- Kanchi-in (観智院) is open from 9 am to 5 pm.
- The museum Homotsukan (宝物館) is open from 9 am to 5 pm when it is open to the public.
- The admission fee to Kondō, Kōdō, and the five-story pagoda is between 500 to 1,000 yen depending on if special events are on.
- Tō-ji is a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Station’s Hachijoguchi exit (八条口).
- From Kintetsu’s Tōji Station (東寺駅), it is a 10-minute walk.
- You can also take a bus and get off at Toji Higashimon-mae (東寺東門前), Toji Minamimon-mae (東寺南門前), Kujō Ōmiya (九条大宮), or Toji Nishimon-mae (東寺西門前).
- You can use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.
