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Vegetarian's Japan Guide

Zuishin-in: The Splendid Plum and Sliding Door Paintings

Many people visit Japan between mid-March and early April for the cherry blossom. If that is your plan, consider visiting Zuishin-in (隨心院) in Kyoto as well. The temple’s plum blossoms are the late bloomers. So, you can adore both cherry and plum blossoms on the same trip! In addition, Zuishin-in has splendidly painted sliding door paintings that shouldn’t be missed!

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About Zuishin-in

Zuishin-in in Yamashina was founded by Ningai (仁海僧正) in 991, the 8th generation disciple of Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師). The land was given by Emperor Ichijō (一条天皇), who wanted the temple to be built. Initially, the temple was named Mandara Temple (曼荼羅寺) because the main image was the Mandala of the Two Realms drawn on a piece of cow skin. Apparently, the cow skin was from a cow Ningai saw in his dream that his deceased mother reincarnated. Although Ningai found the cow, it died in no time. He buried the cow and used its skin to draw the mandala.

The temple’s name was changed to Zuishin-in when it was led by the 5th chief priest. In 1229, Go-Horikawa (後堀河天皇) appointed Zuishin-in a Monseki temple, where the chief priests were members of the imperial family.

The temple was later destroyed during the Jōkyū War (承久の乱) in 1221 and Ōnin War (応仁の乱) in 1467. The restoration of the main worship hall was completed in 1599, and the Nijō and Kujō families revived the temple in the Edo period. The Sōmon Gate (総門) was relocated from the Nijō family in 1753.

☛ Kōbō Daishi is the monk who established the Enryakuji in Mt. Hiei, the mother of Japanese Buddhism.
☛ Ono no Komachi was a poet in the Heian period (794 -1185). She is also known for her beauty.

What to See at Zuishin-in

One of the things that the temple is famous for is the sliding door painting called Gokusaishiki Umeiro Komachiezu (極彩色梅匂小町絵図 ) in the Noh Room (能の間). You will definitely be impressed by this painting, completed in 2009. The painting on the four sliding doors tells the story of Komachi from when she was born in Akita Prefecture to when she served in the imperial palace to her late years in Yamanashi.

© 京都フリー写真素材集

In the Temple’s Shoin (書院), there are also sliding door paintings from the Edo period by the Kanō school (狩野派) painters.

The temple is known as where Ono no Komachi (小野小町) spent the rest of her late years. In the precincts, there are many historical sites related to Komachi. For example, Komachi Makeup Well in the left photo below was where she used to wash her face and apply makeup. The Fumizuka (文塚) in the right photo below is a mound where she buried over a thousand love letters she received.

© photo-ac.com
© photo-ac.com

A Fumihari Jizō (文張地蔵) was enshrined in the temple to pray for those who had written her the letters. If you want to pray for someone you once loved, do it before the Fumihari Jizō. You can write a letter to the special someone and insert it into the postbox in the room. Zuishin-in’s monks regularly hold services for these letters.

Zuishin-in has a pond in the shape of the word Heart called Shinji Pond (心字池). The ground from the pond to the main worship hall is covered by gorgeous moss, so the temple was nicknamed Rakuson’s Moss Temple (洛巽の苔寺).

The Plum Grove at Zuishin-in

Over 200 plums of several varieties south of Zuishin-in’s Sōmon Gate (総門) usually bloom between early and late March. During that time, the Ono Plum Grove (小野梅園) is open to the public. The plums here are the late bloomers. So, if you visit Kyoto for the cherry blossom, visit Ono Plum Grove for something different but equally stunning!

In 2024, Ono Plum Grove was open from the 9th to the 24th of March.

© 京都フリー写真素材集

On the last Sunday of March each year, the Hanezu-odori (はねず踊り) is performed at the platform in front of the Chokushimon Gate (勅使門). The dance was based on the story of a general who fell in love with Komachi and visited her 100 nights. Seeing girls dressed in light pink kimonos dancing with red plum blossoms on their flower hats is adorable and worth seeing.

Zuishin-in’s Four Season

In addition to plum blossoms, other flowers can also be found in Zuishin-in.

  • Rhododendrons of different colors usually bloom from mid-April to early May.
  • Azaleas usually bloom from late May to early June.
  • The fall foliage season at Zuishin-in is from mid to the end of November. During this time, the nighttime illumination event is held.
    • In 2023, Zuishin-in’s Autumn Nighttime Illumination was held from the 17th to the 26th of November.

Zuishin-in’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information

  • Zuishin-in is open from 9 am to 5 pm.
    • The last admission is at 4:30 pm.
  • The admission fee is
    • 500 yen for adults
    • 400 yen if you have a disability
    • 300 yen for junior high school students
  • The temple is a 5-minute walk from Kyoto Subway’s Ono Station (小野駅). If you plan to take the JR lines, change trains at Yamashina Station (山科駅).

Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto

Kitano Tanmangu Plum Grove Kyoto Japan
Click the photo for more plum blossom spots in Kyoto!

Regardless the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtably Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots for you to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flower, plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, the elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.

For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!

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