No trip to Tokyo for a Studio Ghibli fan is complete without tasting one of the iconic, officially licensed Totoro Cream Puffs (トトロのシュークリーム) from Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji (白髭のシュークリーム工房 吉祥寺店). Tucked away near the vibrant Inokashira Park, the Shirohige Kichijoji branch is the perfect, convenient pitstop to pair with a visit to the nearby Ghibli Museum. It is the only shop in the world to have signed a contract with Ghibli to use its characters to create its desserts! However, because these adorable pastries are meticulously handmade in strictly limited daily quantities, walking away empty-handed is a heartbreakingly common reality for unprepared travelers. So read on for information about how to successfully reserve your Totoro cream puff, navigate the key differences between the Kichijoji and Setagaya branches, and unlock essential tips for vegetarian travelers looking to enjoy this whimsical Tokyo treat.
How to Enjoy Totoro Puff at Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji
- About Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji
- Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory: Kichijoji vs. Setagaya
- Our Visit to Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji
- How to Reserve Totoro Cream Puffs (Crucial Tip!)
- Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji’s Business Hours and Access Information
- FAQ
About Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji
You might not think much about a Totoro-shaped puff, but apparently, it isn’t easy to make. It took the pastry chef three years to get Totoro’s ears right. After that, it took another two years to turn it into a sellable product and get Ghibli’s permission to sell!
Since making the puff into a Totoro shape is hard, the number of Totoro Cream Puffs is limited, and they sell out fast. All products in the shop are made with raw ingredients and are free of food additives. Thus, they aren’t only delicious but healthier for us, too!
Custard and chocolate flavors are available all year around. Seasonal flavors, such as chestnut and mango are also available. Each flavor has a different decoration on Totoro’s head.
Apart from the Totoro Cream Puff, other desserts are also inspired by the film’s characters, such as Ponyo’s jelly.
Tips:
☛ You can call to reserve their products. If you don’t want to call, arrive slightly before the store’s opening time to ensure nothing is sold out before you arrive.
☛ The Kichijoji branch is take-out only, whereas the Setagaya branch has a café (albeit with limited seating).
Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory: Kichijoji vs. Setagaya
In addition to the shop in Kichijoji, Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory also has a branch in Setagaya. While both locations sell the iconic Totoro cream puffs, the experience at each is quite different. Depending on your schedule and whether you want to sit down or grab a snack on the go, one may be better for you than the other.
| Feature | Kichijoji (吉祥寺) | Setagaya (世田谷) |
| Experience | Take-out Only | Café & Shop |
| Best For | Grabbing a snack to eat in Inokashira Park | A relaxed, sit-down forest-themed lunch or morning/afternoon tea |
| Location | Close to Ghibli Museum & Kichijoji Station | Tucked away in a quiet residential area |
| Menu | Totoro Puffs & select cookies | Full menu (Pasta, Puffs, Coffee, etc.) |
| Atmosphere | Small, cozy, modern shop | Two-story “Forest House” vibe |
Why Choose the Kichijoji Branch?
- The Ghibli Connection: If you are visiting the Ghibli Museum, the Kichijoji shop is just a short walk or bus ride away. It is the perfect way to complete a Ghibli-themed day.
- Picnic Potential: Kichijoji is home to Inokashira Park. Many visitors buy their puffs here and find a scenic bench near the pond to enjoy them.
Why Choose the Setagaya Branch?
- The “Forest House” Vibe: The Setagaya branch is the original flagship. It is housed in a beautiful, tree-shrouded building that feels like it was plucked straight out of a Miyazaki film.
- Sit-down Dining: This location features the “TOLO Coffee & Bakery” upstairs. You can enjoy a full meal (including vegetarian pasta options) and have your Totoro puff served on a plate with coffee.
- Note that TOLO Coffee & Bakery and Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory are two separate businesses.
- Exclusive Items: Because it is a larger facility, they sometimes carry a wider variety of seasonal flavors and baked goods that sell out quickly at the smaller Kichijoji shop.
Our Visit to Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji
We visited Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji on a rainy day after having lunch at Hattifnatt. It was already past 2 pm when we got there, so only a few Totoro puffs were in the display fridge. Although the limited edition Strawberry Cream Totoro Puff was already sold out, at least the Custard Cream, Chocolate Cream, and Matcha Cream Totoro puffs were still there!
We settled on the custard cream and matcha cream Totoro puffs. Both tasted incredible, with cream overflowing as we bit into the pastry.
The shop owner resembled Ghibli Studio’s founder, Miuyazaki Hayao. His white hair, white beard, and black glasses made us think they were related!
Before packing the Totoro Puff into a paper box, he reminded us that the Totoro that wore a green leaf was the Custard Cream Puff. Most people would intuitively think the one with a green leaf is the matcha-flavored puff. This confusing situation occurred because when the matcha-flavored puff was introduced, the green leaf had already been added to the custard cream puff that was first introduced to the market.
We were also given two Totoro stickers!
The guy treasures the Totoro Puff. Wanting to be more eco-friendly, we didn’t want to pay for another plastic bag. But when he realized we were going to put the pastry box into a bigger bag with other food, he insisted on packing it for us. He didn’t want the puff crushed or the box drenched from the rain.
How to Reserve Totoro Cream Puffs (Crucial Tip!)
Because each Totoro cream puff is meticulously handmade, daily quantities are strictly limited. It is common for the most popular flavors (like classic Custard and Chocolate) to sell out by early afternoon, leaving many disappointed travelers behind. The Kichijoji branch is particularly small and can run out of the most popular flavors by early afternoon.
If you want to guarantee your Totoro puff, especially if you are traveling with a group or eyeing a specific seasonal flavor, ordering ahead is highly recommended.
Here is exactly how to do it:
The Golden Rule: Phone Reservations Only
Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory does not accept reservations via email, social media, or their website. You must call the specific branch you plan to visit.
- Setagaya (Daita) Main Store: +81 3-5787-6221
- Kichijoji Branch: +81 422-26-6550
Note: If you are calling from within Japan, drop the +81 and add a 0 at the start (e.g., 03-5787-6221 or 0422-26-6550).
When to Call to Reserve Your Totoro Puff
- Timeline: Try to call a few days in advance, or up to a week before your visit during peak travel seasons (like cherry blossom season or autumn). In many cases, calling just the day before will still work if they haven’t hit their production cap.
- Operating Days: Remember that both shops are closed on Tuesdays (or Wednesdays if Tuesday is a public holiday), so plan your call accordingly.
What if You Don’t Speak Japanese?
The staff at Shirohige speak limited English, but they deal with international tourists daily and are very accommodating. When you call, you can say:
“Reservation, please?” or “Yoyaku onegai shimasu.”
Be ready to provide:
- Your name
- The date and approximate time of your pickup
- The exact number of puffs and flavors you want
Tip: If you are nervous about calling due to a language barrier or don’t have an international calling plan, ask your hotel concierge to make the call for you as soon as you check in. They will be happy to assist!
Can You Just Walk In?
Yes, walk-ins are welcome! If you prefer to wing it, your best strategy is to arrive right at opening time (10:30 am for Setagaya, 11 am for Kichijoji). There is usually a small line before the doors open, but arriving early gives you the best chance at securing the full lineup of flavors.
Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji’s Business Hours and Access Information
- Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Kichijōji is open from 11 am to 5 pm or until sold out from Wednesday to Monday.
- If Tuesday is a public holiday, it will close on Wednesday.
- The shop is a 5-minute walk from Kichijoji Station’s south/park exit.
Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory: FAQ
Are the Totoro cream puffs vegetarian?
Yes (except for the hat ornament)! Most part of the Totoro cream puffs are vegetarian-friendly. The choux pastry and cream fillings are made with standard baking ingredients such as wheat flour, butter, eggs, milk, and sugar. Unlike many convenience store pastries in Japan, they do not contain hidden animal fats (like lard) or gelatin in the classic custard and chocolate cream fillings.
Unfortunately, the hat ornament contains pork-derived gelatin. If you are a vegetarian or vegan, remember to remove the decoration. Another option is to order their frozen cream puff (フローズンシュークリーム), which is also called Otodoke Totoro (おとどけトトロ). This frozen cream puff, which is only available in their online store, is gelatin-free.
Can I eat inside the Kichijoji Shirohige branch?
No, the Kichijoji branch is take-out only. It is a very small, cozy shop designed for picking up your treats to go. If you want a sit-down café experience where your Totoro puff is served with coffee on a plate, you will need to visit the original flagship branch in Setagaya.
Where can I eat my cream puff if I buy it from the Kichijoji shop?
Since the shop is take-out only, the best spot to enjoy your treat is Inokashira Park, just a short 5 to 7-minute walk away. It offers beautiful benches, scenic walking paths, and a pond, making it the perfect backdrop for a Ghibli-themed picnic. Please remember to take your trash with you, as public trash cans can be hard to find in Japan!
How far is the Kichijoji branch from the Ghibli Museum?
The Kichijoji shop is roughly a 20-minute walk through Inokashira Park to the Ghibli Museum, or about a 5 to 10-minute bus/taxi ride. Many travelers pair the two destinations together for the ultimate Studio Ghibli day trip.
What time do the Totoro cream puffs sell out?
While hours are officially 11 am to 5 pm at Kichijoji, popular flavors like classic Custard and Chocolate frequently sell out by 1 pm or 2 pm, especially on weekends and peak tourist seasons. If you haven’t reserved a puff in advance, aim to arrive right around opening time at 11 am to guarantee your choice of flavor.
Do Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory accept credit cards?
No, Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory is traditionally a cash-only establishment. Make sure to have yen coins or bills on hand before joining the queue.
Other Must-Visit & Unique Cafés in Kichijōji
Make it a Café Day: While you can’t eat inside Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory, many travelers turn their Totoro run into a broader exploration of the local food scene. Kichijoji is widely considered one of Tokyo’s ultimate neighborhoods for café lovers, boasting everything from hidden vinyl record bars to whimsical, fairy-tale tea rooms that are highly Instagrammable.
To find a great spot to head next, explore our comprehensive guide to The Must-Visit Unique Cafes in Kichijoji and discover where to get the best brews and atmosphere in the area.
Discover the Attractions in Kichijōji
Explore More of the Neighborhood: Since the Kichijoji shop is take-out only, exploring the surrounding neighborhood is a must. Kichijoji is consistently voted one of Tokyo’s most desirable neighborhoods to live in, packed with hidden retro alleys, unique shopping streets, and beautiful shrines.
If you want to turn your bakery run into a full day of exploring, dive into The Ultimate Guide to What to Do in Kichijoji for a complete itinerary of the neighborhood’s best-hidden gems.
