Close to the mountainous area west of Kyoto Station, besides the weeping cherry blossom, Shōbō-ji (西山正法寺) is a hidden plum blossom spot in Kyoto that only those in the know know about. The temple is nicknamed a Rock Temple (石の寺) because unique rocks were collected from all over the country. Many of them are placed in its rock garden. Because the stones resemble the shapes of animals, it is known as the Garden of Birds and Beasts.
Table of Contents
- About Shōbō-ji Temple
- Henjō-tō (遍照塔)
- Shōbō-ji’s Rock Garden of Birds and Beast (鳥獣の石庭)
- The Plum Blossoms at Shōbō-ji
- Shōbō-ji’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
About Shōbō-ji Temple
The area where Shōbō-ji is located has been known as a hunting ground for the imperial family and aristocrats since the Heian period (794 – 1185). The temple founded in 753 was initially where the younger brother of the highly revered Chinese monk Jianzhen (鑑真) retired. At the time, it was called Kasuga Zenbō (春日禅坊).
Although the temple was lost during the Ōnin War (応仁の乱), which lasted for 11 years, it was restored in 1615. Because the mother of the fifth Tokugawa shogun, Tsunayoshi (徳川 綱吉), devoted to Buddhism at Shōbō-ji, the temple became a place of prayer for generations of the Tokugawa clan. It is now one of the sub-temples of Tō-ji.
The main image at Shōbō-ji is a Three-faced thousand-armed Kanzeon Bodhisattva (三面千手観世音菩薩). The statue was made in the early Kamakura period (1185 – 1333). Next to the main image is a Kannon Bodhisattva (聖観世音菩薩) that was carved in the early 9th century by Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師). Other cultural treasures held by the temple include a Jizō Bodhisattva statue from 1346, a mandala of the Diamon and Womb World Realms from the early Kamakura period, and old documentation related to the Tokugawa clan.
Kōbō Daishi is the monk who established the Enryakuji in Mt. Hiei, the mother of Japanese Buddhism.
If you are interested in these cultural properties, remember to stop by the exhibition room close to the main worship hall. You will find a miniature version of the three-dimensional mandala in Tōji Temple’s Kōdō Hall.
Furthermore, the sliding door paintings in the Shoin Hall (書院) next to the main worship hall are a must-see at Shōbō-ji. The painting on the 17 doors forms the view of the western part of the Kyoto basin. Thus, the artwork was named Nishiyama Hymn (西山賛歌).
Henjō-tō (遍照塔)
The bright red pagoda Henjō-tō was originally built in Kōdai-ji (高台寺) in 1908 as Chūkon-dō (忠魂堂) to pray for those who passed away in the Russo-Japanese War (日露戦争).
In 2010, the pagoda was relocated to Shōbō-ji and is a tower famous as a representative of modern Japanese architecture.
In early spring, from late March to early April, the Henjō-tō is surrounded by cherry blossoms. The scenery of pink cherry blossoms blooming around the bright vermilion tower under the blue sky would make you feel like you have wandered into another world.
Shōbō-ji’s Rock Garden of Birds and Beast (鳥獣の石庭)
Hōjōen (宝生苑) is what Shōbō-ji is renown for. It is a landscape garden characterized by many huge and strangely shaped rocks. It is also called the Rock Garden of Birds and Beasts because the garden stones resemble 16 animals, such as elephants, lions, rabbits, birds, and turtles. Combined with the quiet surroundings and rich nature, you can spend a relaxing time listening to the sound of water, the breeze, and the chirping of wild birds.
Moreover, be sure to pour some water down the Suikinkutsu (buried earthen jar) in one corner of the garden. Clear and pleasant sounds are produced as the water slowly seeps through the pebbles into the jar.
In early spring, a variety of flowers bloom, including plums, daffodils, and camellias. In particular, the weeping cherry blossom in the center of the garden is a highlight when it blossoms between late March and early April.
From early summer, peonies, azaleas, wisteria, iris, hydrangea, and lotus take over the show and add various colors to the rock garden. Of course, the fall foliage in November is stunning. And once the garden is covered by snow, the garden has a different charm.
The scenic Hōjōen can be admired from Hōshōden (宝生殿). You can sit wherever you like in the Japanese-style hall and enjoy the view of the garden. A cup of matcha tea and a traditional confectionery can also be offered on request.
The Plum Blossoms at Shōbō-ji
Compared to the plum blossom spots in Kyoto’s city center, Shōbō-ji’s plum grove has a panoramic view of the Kyoto Basin and the surrounding mountains in the background.
It is said that this plum garden was created by the previous chief monk from a bamboo thicket. There are around 100 plums of different varieties. The flowers usually reach full bloom from mid-February to early March but may vary slightly depending on the weather conditions.
Shōbō-ji’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Shōbō-ji is open from 9 am to 5 pm.
- The admission fee for the rock garden is 300 yen.
- To get to Shōbō-ji, take a bus from either Hankyu Katsura Station (阪急桂駅) west exit and get off at Minami Kasugamachi (南春日町), the temple is then a 10-minute walk.
- You can also get off the train at JR Mukōmachi Station (向日町駅) or Hankyu Higashimuko Station (東向日駅) and take a bus from there.
- You can use one of Japan’s Transport Apps to plan your visit.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Regardless the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtably Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots for you to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flower, plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, the elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
