One of the most popular attractions in Kyoto’s city center is Nijō Castle (二条城). The castle was a symbol of the samurai’s world but is also where the reign of the Tokugawa clan ended. Apart from the historical elements, it is also where you can enjoy seasonal colors, including plum and cherry blossoms and fall foliage. So, not only is it a must-visit for many international visitors, Nijō Castle is also a typical spot for Japan’s school trips. Once you understand the historical and cultural value of Nijō Castle, it won’t be hard to understand why it was recognized as a World Heritage Site in 1994.
Table of Contents
- About Nijō Castle
- Higashi Ōtemon Gate (東大手門)
- The Karamon Gate (唐門)
- Ninomaru Goten (二の丸御殿) and Ninomaru Garden (二の丸庭園)
- Honmaru Goten (本丸御殿) and Honmaru Garden (本丸庭園)
- Seiryū-en Garden (清流園)
- The Cafes at Nijō Castle
- The Plum Blossoms at Nijō Castle
- Nijō Castle’s Cherry Blossom and and Autumn Foliage Season
- Official Guided Tours at Nijō Castle
- How to Get to Nijō Castle
HERE is the Nijō Castle map.
Tips:
☛ Refer to HERE for a flowering map of Nijō Castle.
☛ Coin-operated lockers are available at both Higashi Ōtemon Gate (where the castle’s ticket office is located) and the resting area near Seiryū-en Garden. The rental cost ranges from 300 to 700 yen.
☛ Electric wheelchairs are available at the General Information Desk free of charge.
About Nijō Castle
Nijō Castle in Kyoto is a historical spot that witnessed the prosperity and the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate. The castle was built for Tokugawa Ieyasu to stay when he visited Kyoto. It was also a castle built to protect the emperor and court nobles. On the other hand, it is also said that he had the castle constructed to keep an close eye on the imperial court. Originally, Nijō Castle had a five-story castle keep. But after buildings from Fushimi Castle were relocated to Nijō Castle in 1623 to expand the castle for Emperor Go-Mizunoo’s (後水尾天皇) visit, most political matters took place at the new Honmaru (本丸) in the castle’s west.
The spectacular five-story castle keep was later lost after a lightening strike in 1750.
The castle’s construction started in 1601. It is the year when Tokugawa Ieyasu started working as the Seiitaishōgun (征夷大将軍), the leader of all the feudal lords in Japan. All the feudal lords in the Kansai region were called upon to assist in Nijō Castle’s construction. While Ieyasu started to work as a shōgun in 1601, the appointment was delayed to 1603. A month after the appointment, Ieyasu entered Nijō Castle and greeted the Japanese emperor at the Kyoto Imperial Palace.
In 1614, Nijō Castle was also where Tokugawa Ieyasu departed for the Siege of Osaka, winter and summer campaigns. In addition, it was also where Ieyasu’s granddaughter, Katsuko (和子) farewelled her family to be married into the imperial family.
Ironically, it was also where the Tokugawa shogunate announced the Transfer of Power Back to the Japanese Emperor (大政奉還). The Ninomaru Goten (二の丸御殿) was where the last shōgun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu (徳川慶喜), gathered the feudal lords in Kyoto and made the announcement. The building still preserved the scene from October 14, 1867.
Nijō Castle After the Edo Period
In the Meiji period, Nijō Castle became the Kyoto Prefectural Office, and its name was changed to Nijō Rikyū (二条離宮), or Nijō Imperial Villa in English. Interestingly, the three imperial villas (the Nijō Castle/Nijō Rikyū, the Katsura Imperial Villa, and the Shugakuin Imperial Villa) and Kyoto Imperial Palace are located in a straight line on the map. Whether this was a coincidence or intentional remains a mystery.
In 1939, Nijō Castle’s administration was moved to Kyoto Prefecture, and the castle was opened to the general public. Thus, the castle’s formal name is the Former Imperial Villa Nijō Castle (元離宮二条城). In 2006, Nijō Castle was chosen to be one of the Top 100 Castles in Japan, the one castle chosen in Kyoto Prefecture. Although no battle happened here, the castle was valued for the important historical events that took place at Nijō Castle.
Nijō Castle: The Only Main Historical Building in Kyoto That Doesn’t Align With the Others
The buildings in the town of Kyoto are constructed so that boulevards running north, south, east, and west are in a grid pattern. However, if you look at the map carefully, you might notice the grounds of Nijō Castle are slightly tilted towards the bottom right.
While the reason can’t be found in any historical document, it was determined to be relating to the compass used at the time. Until the late 16th century, the town of Kyoto was planned using the North Star as the north direction. In theory, the north that a compass points would align with the direction of the North Star. However, it varies slightly depending on the era and observation point.
Thus, because the north in the Kansai region was tilted 3.5 degrees in the Edo period, the Nijō Castle was constructed so that the area marked by the walls tilted slightly from the true north.
Higashi Ōtemon Gate (東大手門)
The Higashi Ōtemon on the east is Nijō Castle’s front gate. The profound gate was built in 1662 and is Japan’s nationally important cultural property. Pay attention to the lattice window above the gate. It is where the samurais used to monitor and attack enemies.
When Emperor Go-Mizunoo (後水尾天皇) visited Nijō Castle, he also entered through the Higashi Ōtemon. Apparently, the gate was reduced to a single-floor gate for his five-day visit to prevent anyone from looking down on the emperor from the second floor. Aren’t we all amazed by how much consideration the Japanese can show towards those they respect?
The long and narrow building beyond the Higashi Ōtemon is called Bando (番所). In the Edo period, it was where samurais were stationed. Two groups of 50 people took turns once a year to manage and guard the castle here.
The Karamon Gate (唐門)
Ninomaru Goten’s front gate is Karamon. It is the first photo spot in Nijō Castle. Inlaid with richly colored sculptures such as butterflies, cranes, and dragons, the gate demonstrates the Tokugawa shogunate’s power in the Edo period. It is now Japan’s national cultural property.
The current gate was renovated between 1624 and 1626. The word “Kara (唐)” means China. The colorful decorations, including the 10 lion carvings, originated in China.
The history of the changing era can also be found on Karamon Gate. It was found that the imperial family’s chrysanthemum crests that are hidden in the gate’s curved gable was carved over Tokugawa clan’s hollyhock crest!
Ninomaru Goten Palace (二の丸御殿) and Ninomaru Garden (二の丸庭園)
The Ninomaru Goten beyond the Karamon was added to the castle in 1626. The building is now Japan’s national treasure.
The complex consists of six buildings with 33 rooms. Each has different partition wall paintings painted by the Kanō school (狩野派) painters. Apparently, over 3,600 paintings are used! Together with the elaborate transom carvings, the artwork befits shōgun’s social status.
The paintings in each room/building have gone through careful consideration. For example, tigers were drawn in the paintings in the biggest building in Ninomaru Goten, Tōzamurai (遠侍). Because it is the building where visitors enter and waited for the shōgun, it is said that the tigers in the paintings would give the visitors pressure.
Apparently, Tōzamurai was where Tokugawa Ieyasu met Toyotomi Hideyori (豊臣秀頼) in 1611. It is said that Ieyasu decided to wage a war to destroy the Toyotomi clan after the meeting. Toyotomi clan was later desecrated in the Seige of Osaka.
In the same year that Ninomaru Goten was constructed, the Ninomaru Garden (二の丸庭園) was redesigned by Kobori Enshū (小堀遠州) to welcome Emperor Go-Mizunoo (後水尾天皇). The garden was designed to replicate the splendid world where immortals live in China and was designated one of Japan’s National Places of Scenery Beauty.
Important: Video and photography are prohibited inside the Ninomaru Goten.
Different Parts of Ninomaru Goten
You will notice the ceiling of Ninomaru Goten’s entrance is extended. This feature is called Kurumayose (車寄). The entrance was designed so that when the Emperor and court nobles visited on oxcarts, they could enter the building directly without being rained upon.
In the building called the Ōhiroma (大広間), dioramas are placed in the First Room (Ichi no Ma, 一の間) and the Second Room (Ni no Ma, 二の間) to demonstrate the scene where the shōgun met other feudal lords in the early Edo period. The pine painting behind where the shōgun would sit bends in a way that it would feel like the tree is protecting the shōgun. Moreover, the stretched pine branches on the walls on the sides would make the visitors feel the shōgun sit further away. The coffered ceiling is another architectural feature that demonstrates the shōgun’s social status.
On the other hand, the walls in the Kuro-shoin (黒書院) next to the Great Hall have flowers and vegetation drawn. This is the place where the shōgun met the feudal lords that were closed to the Tokugawa clan and noble courts.
For more information about each room in the Ninomaru Goten, refer to the Official Website.
The Nightingale Corridor at Ninomaru Goten
You might notice when you walk in Ninomaru Goten’s hallway, your feet create sounds similar to birds chirping. The flooring is called Uguisubari (鶯張り), a defence architectural feature. The walking sound would alert the samurais in the castle that unwelcome guests have entered.
Because of this flooring feature, we are sure if a samurai was hyper and got carried away and skipped in the hallway, he might have been mistaken for a suspicious person (´▽｀*).
Tip: Pay attention to the ceiling when you walk in Ninomaru Goten’s hallway. The ceiling paintings were drawn during the Meiji period on the ceiling of the hallway.
Honmaru Goten Palace (本丸御殿) and Honmaru Garden (本丸庭園)
The Honmaru Garden was the garden of the Honmaru Goten. The three-story building was constructed by the third shōgun, Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳川家光) in 1626. After the Honmaru was lost in a fire hazard in 1788, a tea house was built, which was demolished in the Meiji period, and the garden was desecrated.
While Honmaru Garden was Honmaru Goten’s garden, it was created much later in the second half of the 19th century under Emperor Meiji’s imperial order.
In 1884, a new simple garden consisting mainly of a lawn with an artificial hill was created by the gardener Inoue Seibei (井上清兵衛). Because the garden was designed when Western-style gardens became mainstream, Honmaru Garden somewhat resembles the gardens in Europe.
In 1893, Emperor Meiji relocated a building from the Kyoto Imperial Palace to where Honmaru Goten was because the castle was an imperial villa at the time. The wall paintings in the building are also what would attract your attention. These are the works of painters who were active from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period. The seasonal flora and fauna and rural landscapes highlight the elegance unique to the imperial family.
Tip: You can overlook Homaru Goten and Honmaru Garden from the castle keep’s stone base.
Important: You need to purchase a reservation ticket to enter Honmaru Goten Palace. Purchase your ticket HERE. But note you can’t cancel or change your booking.
Seiryū-en Garden (清流園)
The garden on the north side of the castle is called Seiryū-en. It was completed in 1965. The garden has a tea house called Waraku-an (和楽庵). It was built using the building material from a part of the mansion of a wealthy businessman in the early Edo period. Vegetation, 800 garden stones from the mansion, and around 300 garden rocks from around the country were also used.
Seiryū-en can be largely divided into the Japanese-style garden, which has a teahouse, and the Western-style garden, which has a massive lawn. It is the perfect place to compare the differences between the two styles. In addition, it is where Nijō Castle’s tea ceremony events are held.
The visitor route to Seiryū-en Garden is lined with around 160 camellias of over 50 varieties. Red and white flowers bloom one after another from mid-December to mid-April.
Tips:
☛ Remember to stop by the Nijō Castle Painting Gallery close to Seiryū-en’s exit for the originals of the wall paintings on Ninomaru Goten’s wooden partitions.
☛ There is a rock that looks like a lion at the border between the Japanese and Western gardens. Look for it!
The Plum Blossoms at Nijō Castle
If you visit Kyoto in early spring, Nijō Castle is a convenient spot to adore the plum blossoms. A plum grove with 130 plums of 50 varieties spreads across the inner moat of the castle keep base. While it is a representative plum blossom spot in Kyoto’s city center, the plum grove was only created in 1954. Thus, compared to spots in the city center, such as the Jōnangū Shrine (城南宮), the plums at Nijō Castle are relatively younger.
The fruits from the castle’s plum groves were originally discarded, but in recent years they have been collected by the locals. The processed plums and plum-infused products are then sold and the proceeds are donated to Nijō Castle.
Because the plum blossoms at Nijō Castle are planted near the castle keep’s stone base, your photos would have the extra historical samurai vibe. While the castle keep doesn’t exist anymore because it was destroyed by lightning in 1750, the stone walls are magnificent by themselves.
The plum blossoms at Nijō Castle usually bloom between mid-February and late-March, with the season peaks from late February to early March.
Nijō Castle’s Cherry Blossoms and Autumn Foliage Season
Nijō Castle has around 300 cherry blossoms of 50 species that usually bloom from mid-March to late April. A cherry blossom festival is normally held when the flowers bloom, including nighttime illumination and various events. The lighting of different colors projecting on the white castle wall is fantastic.
The fall foliage season at Nijō Castle is between mid-November and early December. Like the cherry blossom season, various events and illumination are held when the vivid colors color the castle.
Tip: To avoid queuing, it is best to purchase your ticket beforehand if you want to see the nighttime illumination at Nijō Castle.
The Cafes at Nijō Castle
There are two cafes that you can stop by during your time at Nijō Castle. One is in the Seiryū-en Garden and the other is in the resting area close to the garden’s exit.
Sabo Maeda (茶房 前田)
In Waraku-an, there is a traditional cafe called Sabo Maeda, run by Maeda Coffee (前田珈琲). The cafe chain, established in 1971, has its main store in Karasuma. Maeda Coffee is particular about in-house bean roasting and handmade sweets. The brand became so popular that it expanded its footprint to China.
With a Japanese-style garden in front of the cafe, Sabo Maeda has a peaceful atmosphere. The friendly staff offers top-notch service. What could beat the experience of adoring the stunning garden with a bowl of authentic matcha tea and some traditional sweets in your mouth?
You can refer to their menu HERE.
GREEN CAFE STYLE Sanoah Nijo (GREEN CAFE STYLE 茶乃逢)
On the other hand, if you are after something more modern and eye-catching desserts, visit the GREEN AFE STYLE Sanoah Nijo in the resting area close to Seiryū-en’s exit. Besides the confectionery made from Kyoto’s matcha, fancy-looking cakes are also served here. In addition, various lunch menus are offered to fill your empty stomach!
Just like their dessert range, GREEN CAFE STYLE Sanoah Nijo also has a couple of unique fusion drinks on the menu, such as the drinkable refreshing warabi mochi rice cake. If you like beer, give their Matcha Beer a try. Surprisingly, the beer goes well with the green tea!
Important: GREEN CAFE STYLE Sanoah Nijo doesn’t offer any pure vegan/vegetarian lunch menu. You can, however, use the phrases in our Essential Japanese Travel Phrases for Vegetarians and Vegans to check with the stuff if certain ingredients can be excluded for you on the day.
Official Guided Tours at Nijō Castle
Joining a Nijō Castle official guided tour is recommended. Not only can you learn more about the castle and interesting facts, but the tour will also guide you into the normally closed areas to the public.
- The 60-minute English guided tours are held at 10 am and 12 pm each day.
- The cost is 2,500 yen per person. The cost covers one elementary school student or younger children.
- A reservation is recommended and is bookable through GetYourGuide.
- If you want to organize a private tour, please email [email protected].
Audio guide in different languages can also be rented for 600 yen per machine.
Moreover, Digital Pamphlets in different languages are also available.
Nijō Castle’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Refer to Nijō Castle’s Website for information about the castle’s opening hours and admission fee.
- Nijō Castle is next to Kyoto Subway Nijojo-mae Station (二条城前駅).
- You can also take Kyoto City Bus routes 9 or 50 and get off at Nijojo-mae (二条城前) from Kyoto Station.
- From Shijo, you can take routes 12.
- If you plan to take a JR train, get off at Nijo Station (二条駅) and walk for 17 minutes.
Tip: If you have a valid Kyoto Subway and Bus One-Day Pass, show it to the castle’s ticket office staff for 100 yen off on the admission fee. Refer to HERE for more attractions that you can get a discount on with the pass.
Discover Other Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto
Regardless the overtourism problem, Kyoto is undoubtably Japan’s most popular tourist destination. If you plan to visit Kyoto in early spring, there are several spots for you to add to your itinerary to enjoy the seasonal flower, plum blossoms! While the view created by the plum flowers may be less awe-inspiring than the cherry blossoms due to the volumes, the elegant fragrance will make your visit more pleasant.
For more information, refer to our article on The Plum Blossom Spots in Kyoto!
