Speaking of Aizu-Wakamatsu‘s tourist attractions, Tsuruga Castle has to be at the top of the list. Although the castle was largely damaged during the Boshin War (戊辰戦争), the castle keep was restored in 1965. After restoring the castle’s red roof tiles in 2011, Tsuruga Castle regained its glorious appearance before being dismantled in the late 19th century. Nowadays, the castle is a place for the locals to relax. Different from other castles in Japan, the roof of Tsuruga Castle is beautifully red-tiled. The dark red roof contrasts splendidly with the blue sky when the castle is bathed in sunshine.
Table of Contents
- Tsuruga Castle’s History
- The Best Way to Explore Tsuruga Castle
- About Tsuruga Castle’s Red Roof Tiles
- Tsuruga Castle’s Castle Keep
- Teahouse Rinkaku (麟閣)
- The Bell Tower (Kanetsuki-dō, 鐘撞堂)
- Events at Tsuruga Castle
- Tsuruga Castle’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
Tip: The English notation at Tsuruga Castle is limited. So, to enjoy the castle fully, it is best to learn about some history of Tsuruga Castle and the Aizu region before you go, especially the Boshin War and the White Tiger Battalion (Byakkotai, 白虎隊). We especially recommend watching the Japanese drama series, Yae no Sakura, before you go.
Tsuruga Castle’s History
Tsuruga Castle was completed in 1384 when the Ashina clan (蘆名氏) ruled the Aizu region. Initially, the castle was named Kurokawa Castle (黒川城) because the area’s name was Kurokawa. At the time, there was no castle keep, so the castle didn’t look like a castle.
When Gamō Ujisato (蒲生氏郷) became the lord of Kurokawa Castle, he added a 7-story castle keep in 1593. The area’s name was also changed to Wakamatsu (若松), and the castle was renamed Tsuruga Castle, Crane Castle. Why crane? Because Ujisato’s childhood name was Tsuruchiyo (鶴千代), and the crane is in the Gamō clan’s family crest.
You might wonder why the castle keep only has five stories. It is because the original castle keep was damaged by a large earthquake in the Edo period. Only five stories were constructed when the restoration was completed in 1639.
In 1868, Tsuruga Castle became a large battlefield between the newly formed government army and the Tokugawa Shogunate’s force. The fierce battle lasted about a month before Tsuruga Castle was finally surrendered. However, Tsuruga Castle withstood fierce battles without falling, so it is now known as an impregnable castle (難攻不落の名城). Moreover, the site was designated as a National Historic Site in 1934.
In 1874, Tsuruga Castle was dismantled under the order of the new government. Fortunately, it was restored in 1965 with donations received across the country, allowing it to be chosen as one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles.
In 2011, the castle’s roof tiles were also replaced with dark red tiles, the same as those used at the end of the Edo period. After the replacement, Tusruga Castle is the only castle in Japan with a dark red roof!
The Best Way to Explore Tsuruga Castle
According to the staff who look after Tsuruga Castle, the best way to explore the castle is to visit the attractions in the sequence below. It will take you around 60 to 90 minutes to see the castle properly.
Tsuruga Castle’s Castle Keep (鶴ヶ城天守閣) → Minamihashi-Nagaya (南走長屋) → Hoshii Tower (干飯櫓) → Teahouse Rinkaku (茶室麟閣)
Tip: Tsuruga Castle usually has the least visitors in the early morning and late afternoon.
About Tsuruga Castle’s Red Roof Tiles
When Tsuruga Castle was initially constructed, the roof tiles were black. The color wasn’t changed until 1643, when Hoshina Masayuki (保科正之) became the castle’s lord.
And, no, the reason for changing the color wasn’t because it made the castle look more attractive. Masayuki had a valid reason.
The red color of the roof tiles comes from the glaze containing iron. These types of roof tiles excel in insulation. Without the red roof tiles, the feudal lords would have to continuously endure the coldness of Aizu‘s long, harsh winter.
Tsuruga Castle’s Castle Keep
Tsuruga Castle’s castle keep is now a museum where visitors can learn more about the Aizu region‘s culture and history. The museum also includes introductions to the feudal lords who ruled the region and the tragic Boshin War. On the first floor, planned exhibitions and special exhibitions with various themes are held throughout the year.
Of course, the fifth floor gives you the best view of the surrounding area, including Mt. Bandai (磐梯山) and Mt. Iimori (飯盛山).
Teahouse Rinkaku (茶室 麟閣)
Rinkaku is the teahouse in Tsuruga Castle that is an Important Prefectural Cultural Property. It was built by Sen no Rikyū’s youngest son, Shōan (小庵). As Sen no Rikyū was Ujisato’s tea ceremony teacher, when Sen no Rikyū angered Toyotomi Hideyoshi and was ordered to commit seppuku in 1591, Ujisato sheltered Shōan in the hope that Rikyū’s way of tea can be revived.
Shōan constructed Rinkaku to show his appreciation. He was later able to return to Kyoto and revive his family.
Sen no Rikyū (千利休) is the founder of Japan’s tea school.
Rinkaku is a thatched hut-style teahouse, rare in eastern Japan. In 1872, Morikawa Zenbee (森川善兵衛) moved the teahouse to his residence to protect it so the teahouse wouldn’t be dismantled with Tsuruga Castle. In 1990, it was relocated back to where it was.
If you want to experience the way of tea in this historical teahouse, join the Tea Ceremony Experience Workshop (茶道体験ワークショップ)! You will be walked through a brief history of Japan’s tea ceremony. The session is then followed by a seasonal traditional confectionery as you wait for your tea to be made. When the tea bowl is in your hand, enjoy the tea with the garden view in front of you!
Note that you need to be at least 6 years old to participate.
- Teahouse Rinkaku is open from 8:30 am to 5 pm.
- The last admission is at 4:30 pm.
- The last order for a bowl of matcha is 4 pm.
- The admission fee to Teahouse Rinkaku is 210 yen for adults (senior high school students and older).
- You can get a set ticket for admission to Teahouse Rinkaku and the castle keep for 520 yen.
- The cost to enjoy tea at Teahouse Rinkaku is 600 yen.
The Bell Tower (Kanetsuki-dō, 鐘撞堂)
Tsuruga Castle’s bell tower is west of the castle keep. It was more than just an infrastructure notifying the locals of the current time. When the Boshin War became a siege battle at Tsuruga Castle, allied soldiers outside the castle were informed that those inside were alive. It was a way to boost the team’s morale.
Apparently the bell was struck at fixed hours until Tsuruga Castle was surrendered.
Tsurugajo Cafe (鶴ヶ城喫茶)
If you need some snacks while strolling around Tsuruga Castle, head to Tsurugajo Cafe. The must-eats here are the Premium Special Matcha Soft Serve (プレミアム特濃抹茶ソフト) and Matcha Tempura Manjū (抹茶天ぷら饅頭). Tea ceremony-grade matcha used at Teahouse Rinkaku is one of the ingredients in the two top-sellers. You can taste the premium-grade matcha’s richness and deliciousness from the first bite!
What is special about the Matcha Tempura Manjū, besides the fact that the sweet buns are deep-fried, is that you eat it with soy sauce.
The Ginshachi-yaki (銀シャチ焼き) is another popular sweet sold at Tsuruga Castle Cafe. The taiyaki is in the shape of Shachihoko, the roof decoration of Tsuruga Castle. Note that Ginshachi-yaki is only available in autumn and winter.
Shachihoko is a mythical animal that is a mixture of a dragon and fish with thorns and sharp fangs. It is often found on the roofs of Japanese castles. The tail points upwards like a spear.
Events at Tsuruga Castle
Aizu Painted Candle Festival (会津絵ろうそくまつり ゆきほたる)
Each year, on the second Saturday in February, hundreds of painted candles illuminate Tsuruga Castle’s grounds and several spots in Aizu-Wakamatsu City. The painted candles are one of Aizu’s traditional local crafts. The festival commemorates those who lost their lives in the Boshin War.
During the festival, the castle keep is open at night for visitors to see the snow scenery dotted with around 10,000 candles!
Tip: Hoshiban Decorated Candle Shop on Nanukamachi-dōri Street is a good spot if you want to paint an Aizu painted candle.
Tsuruga Castle Cherry Blossom Festival (鶴ヶ城さくらまつり)
Tsuruga Castle in one of Japan’s Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots. The cherry blossoms were planted in 1908 to commemorate the establishment of the 65th Army Infantry Regiment in Aizu-Wakamatsu.
Between early April and early May (usually peaks in mid to late April) when the cherry blossoms at Tsuruga Castle is blooming, the Tsuruga Castle Cherry Blossom Festival is held. In addition to the flowers, various events are held during the festival period, including Aizu-Jurakū (會津十楽), which recreate various cultural rituals and performances that took place in the past to promote cultural development.
Moreover, the lighting at night allows you to adore the 1,000 cherry blossoms at night with the illuminated castle, making the Tsuruga Castle Park Light-up (鶴ヶ城公園ライトアップ) the biggest light-up event held in a historic site in eastern Japan.
Tip: If you are touched by the Japanese drama series, Yae no Sakura (八重の桜), look for a cherry tree called Haruka (はるか) near the statue of Niijima Yae (新島八重). The tree was planted by Ayase Haruka (綾瀬はる), who played the brave Japanese woman.
Tsuruga Castle Autumn Light-up (鶴ヶ城紅葉ライトアップ)
Tsuruga Castle is also lit from sunset to 9 pm during the fall foliage season, allowing visitors to adore the vivid colors the entire day.
- The autumn light-up at Tsuruga Castle takes place from mid-October to mid-November.
- Tsuruga Castle Park’s fall foliage season usually peaks in early November.
Tsuruga Castle’s Opening Hours, Admission Fee, and Access Information
- Tsuruga Castle’s castle keep is open from 8:30 am to 5 pm.
- The last admission is at 4:30 pm.
- The admission fee to the castle keep is
- 410 yen for adults
- 150 yen for children
- You can pre-purchase your admission ticket through kkday.
- As Tsuruga Castle isn’t close to a train station, take the sightseeing bus, Haikarasan (イカラさん) and Akabee (あかべぇ), and get oof at Tsuruga Castle Entrance (鶴ヶ城入口).
Tips:
☛ Set ticket deals including Tsuruga Castle’s admission can be purchased from Aizu Bus Ekimae Information Centre opposite Aizu-Wakamatsu Station. Refer to Aizu Bus’s Website for more details.
☛ The One-Day Free Bus Ticket (1日乗り放題のフリー乗車券) allows you to ride the sightseeing bus, Haikarasan (イカラさん) and Akabee (あかべぇ) unlimitedly.
Explore the Stunning Scenery Along the Tadami Line
Aizu-Wakamatsu is Tadami Line’s terminal station. The train line is Japan’s most stunning local train line. From the local train’s window, which runs through the mountains, breathtaking natural views unfold one after another throughout the year. Several tourist spots worth checking out are also dotted along the Tadami Line, enriching your visit to Japan’s rural towns.
So, refer to our Tadami Line article for more information on expanding your itinerary to include a couple of scenic spots!
