Vegetarian's Japan Guide

Kōgensha: The Hidden Photogenic Spot in Morioka

Kōgensha (光原社) was a publisher in Morioka who published the only fairy tale collection of Miyazawa Kenji (宮沢賢治), a famous Japanese novelist and poet in the early 20th century. In fact, Kenji was the one who named the company. After he passed away, the publisher was slowly transformed into a shop selling craftworks, clothing, and accessories from around the country and even overseas. Each building in the photogenic complex was named based on Kenji’s work. So, if you are a fan of his, you might feel as if you have stepped into the world of his work.

If you are interested in learning about Miyazawa Kenji, the Majiel-kan (マヂエル館) is a small museum about the novelist. It displays his handwritten manuscripts, photographs, and first editions of his published works.

Other buildings, including Kōgensha Honten (光原社本店), have lacquerware, ceramics, Washi paper products, hand-blown glass, and more on the shelf. For accessories and clothing, visit Campanella (カムパネラ). If you are after the handicrafts from the Tōhoku region, head to Morio (モーリオ). It also sells local food products.

Coffee-Kan (光原社 可否館)

In the beautiful courtyard towards the end of the complex, Coffee-Kan is a retro-style café that many enjoy visiting. A cup of coffee with a plate of walnut cookies is a popular combination among customers when they need a break from exploring Morioka‘s city center.

After an order is received, beans are ground and hand-brewed. As you wait for your coffee, enjoy the quiet moments by listening to the rhythmic sound of a pendulum clock ticking. The cafe’s relaxing atmosphere can easily make you forget the passage of time.

The walnut cookie is a popular Morioka souvenir known only to those in the know. The cookie dough is sandwiched with plenty of walnuts and baked to a moist texture. This is why it goes really well with coffee or tea.

If you love the cookie, purchase some more from Morio (モーリオ) in the photo. It is one of the five buildings of Kōgensha. It is the white building opposite across the road. Besides the walnut cookie, Coffee-kan’s homemade wine jelly is another famous sweet.

Tips:
☛ Coffee-Kan is a popular café. Arrive early to avoid queueing.
☛ The walnut cookies are usually sold out by noon.

Our Visit to Kōgensha

We got to Coffee-kan in the afternoon on a rainy day. It was the perfect shelter. While there were two vacant seats, they were at different tables. Fortunately, the old man at the counter volunteered to change seats, so we were able to sit together. What was better was that the customer at the table by the window left shortly after we walked into the cafe. Thus, we enjoyed our time at Coffee-kan sitting at their best seat!

From our table next to the counter, we can see the staff making beverages. It was fun seeing them making our wiener coffee, which we loved a lot.

Coffee-kan’s wiener coffee has three layers: fresh cream at the top, coffee in the middle, and sugar at the bottom. We mixed one cup of coffee and drank the other cup as it was. Our conclusion is to drink it without mixing the three layers. This way, a cup of coffee has three different tastes! 

The walnut cookie was amazing. But, unfortunately, it was sold out at Morio. We were told to come back at 10 am the next day. The cookie can also be bought from Coffee-kan, but it is more expensive.

Zaimokucho Yoichi market (材木町よ市)

Moreover, on Zaimokucho Street (材木町通り), where Kōgensha is located, the Zaimokucho Yoichi market is held every Saturday. As there are usually around 100 stalls, you will surely find something you will want to bring home!

Whether it is fresh produce, pickles, or miscellaneous goods, they are sold at a cheaper price at Zaimokucho Yoichi.

Kōgensha’s Business Hours and Access Information

  • Kōgensha is open from 10 am to 6 pm.
    • On Saturdays, it closes early at 5:30 pm.
    • It is closed on the 15th of each month. It the 15th of the month falls on a weekend or a public holiday, it will close on the next business day.
  • Coffee-Kan is open from 10 am to 5 pm.
    • The last order is taken at 4:30 pm.
  • Kōgensha is a 5 to 10-minute walk from JR Morioka Station (盛岡駅).
    • If you plan to take Dendenmushi, get off at Zaimokucho Minami-guchi (材木町南口).

Discover the Must-Visit Attractions in Morioka

Azumaya Honten Morioka Iwate Japan
Click the photo for travel ideas in Morioka!

When you hear of Morioka, Wanko Soba and Morioka cold noodles are probably the two first things that come to mind. But the city isn’t just about food. It also has many cultural attractions, hot springs, nature and more!

So refer to our Morioka article for ideas about where to stop by when visiting Iwate Prefecture’s capital city!

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