For a healthy meal on the Nanukamachi-dōri Street, head to Mitsutaya (満田屋). Opened in 1834 as a miso maker, miso dengaku (みそ田楽) has been served in the space at the back of the store since 1972. The space was renovated from a miso storehouse and has the perfect setting to enjoy the traditional dish. While simple, skewers grilled using naturally aged miso are tasty!
Moreover, you can pick up some pickles, hand-squeezed sesame oil and rapeseed oil using the traditional method, along with other healthy foods from the Aizu region to bring home and share with family and friends. Aizu’s local specialty, Takada plum (高田梅), can also be purchased from Mitsutaya.
What Is Dengaku?
Dengaku is a traditional Japanese performing art in which flutes and drums are played while dancers perform, often during agricultural rituals such as rice planting. The white costumes that the performers wear would remind people of tofu skewers. It is no wonder that tofu skewers grilled with miso paste or other seasonings are called Dengaku-yaki (田楽焼).
In Aizu, miso dengaku is made using a red miso paste mixed with sugar and various other condiments.
Miso Dengaku at Mitsutaya
At Mitsutaya, the paste is applied to various ingredients, including tofu, konjac, herring, shiitake mushrooms, taro, and more. Grilled over charcoal in the traditional hearth, dining at Mitsutaya is a quintessential way to experience Japanese culture. The restaurant has four different types of miso paste, including sweetened miso, yuzu (a type of citrus), Japanese pepper (山椒), and aged miso. Depending on the ingredient, different flavors of miso paste are applied.
But if you want a little bit of everything, order the Miso Dengaku Course (みそ田楽コース). It comes with fried tofu, half-mashed rice cakes, regular rice cakes, taro potato, konjac, and smoked herring. If you are a vegetarian, please speak with the staff to see if they can substitute the herring with other plant-based skewers.
The best seats in the restaurant are the counter seats surrounding the hearth, where you can see the skewers being grilled. Since the staff only start grilling after an order has been placed, you can see your order being grilled right in front of you.
Tips:
☛ Try the fried tofu (豆腐生揚げ) skewers. The tofu is fried using Mitsutaya’s hand-squeezed seed oil.
☛ If you like cheese and garlic, order a grilled miso ban (味噌パン). The garlic-infused bun is filled with melted cheese.
☛ While reservations are not taken, you can call Mitsutaya at +81-120-30-8803 on the day to be added to the day’s waiting list.
☛ Tsurunoe Sake Brewery‘s sake goes really well with miso dengaku.
Mitsutaya’s Business Hours and Access Information
- Mitsutaya is open from 10 am to 5 pm, Thursday to Tuesday.
- The restaurant is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm.
- The last order is taken at 4:20 pm.
- Mitsutaya is closed from the end of December to the beginning of January.
- The restaurant is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm.
- The restaurant is a 10-minute walk from Nanukamachi Station (七日町駅).
Where to Shop for Souvenirs on Nanukamachi-dōri Street
Because there are many shops in Nanukamachi, if you don’t have time to check them out one by one, refer to our Recommended Shops on Nanukamachi-dōri Street article for our top picks!
Discover the Stunning Scenery Along the Tadami Line
The Nanukamachi-dōri Street, where Mitsutaya is located, is the starting point of Japan’s most stunning train line, the Tadami Line. From the local train’s window, which runs through the mountains, breathtaking natural views unfold one after another throughout the year. Several tourist spots that are worth checking out are also dotted along the Tadami Line, enriching your visit to Japan’s rural towns.
Refer to our Tadami Line article for more information on expanding your itinerary to include a couple of scenic spots!
